owl jewellery box
- sunnybob
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owl jewellery box
My latest bandsaw box, a commission build for a neighbour who "has a thing" for owls.
The box is cherry, the claws and beak are bubinga. The drawer fronts are thermally modified rippled sycamore, and with red flocking.
The eyes are painted and covered with liquid glass.
Just over a foot tall.
The box is cherry, the claws and beak are bubinga. The drawer fronts are thermally modified rippled sycamore, and with red flocking.
The eyes are painted and covered with liquid glass.
Just over a foot tall.
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My projects are here;
https://pbase.com/sunnybob
https://pbase.com/sunnybob
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- OutoftheWoodwork
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Re: owl jewellery box
Nice job!! I'm guessing you used flocking in the drawers? If so, what did you use for an adhesive? Flocking adhesive is ridiculously expensive. I read where people have used the clear drying Elmer's Glue, or matching acrylic paint with success?
Barb
- RainMan
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Re: owl jewellery box
Yet another beautiful piece . How much time is involved in a build like this ? Obviously people like myself would take weeks , and not have the same outcome
I don’t always insulate , but when I do .
Ok , I never insulate
Ok , I never insulate
- DaninVan
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Re: owl jewellery box
What a beauty!
I haven't heard that expression, 'liquid glass' for decades. Not the same stuff as when we were kids I'm guessing...
https://www.liquidglassnanotech.com/liquid-glass/
OK; I was confusing it with 'water glass'.
https://www.britannica.com/science/water-glass
I haven't heard that expression, 'liquid glass' for decades. Not the same stuff as when we were kids I'm guessing...
https://www.liquidglassnanotech.com/liquid-glass/
OK; I was confusing it with 'water glass'.
https://www.britannica.com/science/water-glass
- Herb Stoops
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Re: owl jewellery box
Another beauty, @Sunnybob, Your work is beautiful, besides being quite intricate. Great job.
HErb
HErb
- old55
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Re: owl jewellery box
Absolutely beautiful.
Ross,
Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia
‘Enjoy the knowledge of others that can be found within.’
Rockhampton, Queensland, Australia
‘Enjoy the knowledge of others that can be found within.’
- sunnybob
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Re: owl jewellery box
Barb, I once used the correct adhesive when I was in the UK. I was not all that impressed with it, let alone the price. I cant get it on my small island because its flammable and cant be air shipped so I use Hammerite metal paint, the same colour as the flocking so that it doesnt grin through if the flocking is shallow in places.
Dab it on quite thick, but not so much that it sags down the sides of the drawer or puddles on the bottom. Use a lot of flocking so that you completely saturate all surfaces (its not wasteful because you can reclaim all the stuff that doesnt actually stick). The carboard puff applicator tube is a must, I dont see it working if you just sprinkle by hand.
If hammerite isnt available, any heavy duty outdoor metal paint will do.
The one down side to this is the smell of the paint lingers for quite a while, so once its all dry I carefully spray scented air freshener at the bpxes from a distance once or twice a day for a couple of days so that the spray does not liquidise and wet the flocking.
Rick, somewhere north of 20 hours actual working time, most of that sanding the curved sides because a machine just wont do the job. But there is a lot of drying time at the end of the build. Coat of shellac? wait half hour before recoating. 4 coats? thats 2 to 3 hours.
Wipe on poly? up to 3 hours between coats, could be as many as 6 coats, thats 2 days gone. Although nowadays I mostly use paste wax over the shellac because glossy finishes have gone out of fashion. Paste wax is about half the time of poly.
Flocking? I leave it 48 hours to dry through before gently tapping the sides to remove excess, and then another day at least before actually touching the surface.
Bear in mind I'm retired and this is a hobby, so we're talking a week and a half per box.
Dan, yup, I am that old. its a 2 part epoxy that is self levelling and dries completely clear. I only use it when I dont have to sand it flat, because thats a 5 day 50 dollar sandpaper thing that I am NOT getting into.
Dab it on quite thick, but not so much that it sags down the sides of the drawer or puddles on the bottom. Use a lot of flocking so that you completely saturate all surfaces (its not wasteful because you can reclaim all the stuff that doesnt actually stick). The carboard puff applicator tube is a must, I dont see it working if you just sprinkle by hand.
If hammerite isnt available, any heavy duty outdoor metal paint will do.
The one down side to this is the smell of the paint lingers for quite a while, so once its all dry I carefully spray scented air freshener at the bpxes from a distance once or twice a day for a couple of days so that the spray does not liquidise and wet the flocking.
Rick, somewhere north of 20 hours actual working time, most of that sanding the curved sides because a machine just wont do the job. But there is a lot of drying time at the end of the build. Coat of shellac? wait half hour before recoating. 4 coats? thats 2 to 3 hours.
Wipe on poly? up to 3 hours between coats, could be as many as 6 coats, thats 2 days gone. Although nowadays I mostly use paste wax over the shellac because glossy finishes have gone out of fashion. Paste wax is about half the time of poly.
Flocking? I leave it 48 hours to dry through before gently tapping the sides to remove excess, and then another day at least before actually touching the surface.
Bear in mind I'm retired and this is a hobby, so we're talking a week and a half per box.
Dan, yup, I am that old. its a 2 part epoxy that is self levelling and dries completely clear. I only use it when I dont have to sand it flat, because thats a 5 day 50 dollar sandpaper thing that I am NOT getting into.
My projects are here;
https://pbase.com/sunnybob
https://pbase.com/sunnybob
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Re: owl jewellery box
Beautiful job Bob. I would begin now to make one for Christmas, if I had the plans for one. Or is this one made out of your own ideas.?
Bushwhacker
Bushwhacker
- sunnybob
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Re: owl jewellery box
Plans? Plans?
Decide on your wood, and the depth of the finished article. cut planks up and glue together till you have a solid block slightly larger in all three dimensions than your desired finished object.
find a shape you like on the internet, print it out onto A4 paper. stick the paper to the wood, cut round the shape.
easy peasy.
Cutting the interior boxes is a little trickier, but there are loads of utube videos on that.
Make sure the depth of the block (laying down) is LESS than the cutting depth of your bandsaw. I once made a treasure chest so big I had to make it in two halves and stick them together later.
Decide on your wood, and the depth of the finished article. cut planks up and glue together till you have a solid block slightly larger in all three dimensions than your desired finished object.
find a shape you like on the internet, print it out onto A4 paper. stick the paper to the wood, cut round the shape.
easy peasy.
Cutting the interior boxes is a little trickier, but there are loads of utube videos on that.
Make sure the depth of the block (laying down) is LESS than the cutting depth of your bandsaw. I once made a treasure chest so big I had to make it in two halves and stick them together later.
My projects are here;
https://pbase.com/sunnybob
https://pbase.com/sunnybob