Cribbage board

[Bushwhacker]

My baby sister lives in Northern Wisconsin and when the snow has them locked in, they play cribbage.
I made her a cribbage board, just to be making one. seemed like a fun project and I had lumber left from my latest cutting board build.


Bushwhacker

Since I made this video, my sister has corrected me and says you start from the opposite side of the board at the bottom right side. and end at the left top.
Who knew?
I guess it would still have the same amount of holes to travers.

[Herb Stoops]

Good one, David, I like it. I have seen many in my life, but none with the pockets for the pins and cards. Even seen a few with the broken off drill bit still in the hole and a hole added along side, Heh,Heh.
Herb

[Bushwhacker]

Good one, David, I like it. I have seen many in my life, but none with the pockets for the pins and cards. Even seen a few with the broken off drill bit still in the hole and a hole added along side, Heh,Heh.
Herb

Thanks Herb.
A problem i had with this one was the walnut is very hard and chipped off between the holes.
Once i had it all drilled, I went back and attempted to sand it smooth but the little chips were too deep. so i redrilled it and this time went all the way through the board, then ran it through the planner, which did the job. I added a thin piece of material to the back of the top to hide the magnets in. This hid the through holes and held the thin magnets.

You and I need to have coffee some day. Lets see if Stick gets that RV on the road. Might just make it a group coffee. You buy.

David

[Herb Stoops]

I was wondering how you kept the hinged lid closed. I wonder if some stickum paper or tape both sides before you drill might solve the tear out problem. Do you have to drill all the way through,does the tear out happen on the top side,or the bottom?
Coffee sounds good too.
HErb

[honesttjohn]

Did you set your CNC with the pattern and let it go?? Nice wood!!

[Bushwhacker]

I was wondering how you kept the hinged lid closed. I wonder if some stickum paper or tape both sides before you drill might solve the tear out problem. Do you have to drill all the way through,does the tear out happen on the top side,or the bottom?
Coffee sounds good too.
HErb

The tear out was only on the top, the bottom was fairly clean.

[Bushwhacker]

Did you set your CNC with the pattern and let it go?? Nice wood!!

I don't have a CNC. just an old B&D drill press my brother in law gave me many years ago as payment for a debt. Each hole was drilled one at a time then the board was readjusted for the next hole.
The wood was walnut and hard maple. I cut the walnut to fit the width of each set of holes and the maple the width of the spaces between the lines of holes. Then glued and clamped them together. You can down load and print the different patterns for the holes on line.
I taped the pattern to the board and carefully drilled each hole. I clamped a strip of wood to the drills table to keep the holes straight. Took a while but worked out that way.
I noticed upon completion that the 1/8 inch bits i used had a wider cutter head than the shaft of the bit. This I assumed was to facilitate clean out of the holes but since the old drill press had a slight wobble to it, I believe coupled with that and the wider heads on the bits, that is what caused the tear out. Also, had I reversed the woods to place the holes in the maple, I don't think the maple would have clipped out like the walnut did. Test pieces later shown that to be true.
A couple of passes through the planer took care of that.
So, all was well.

Bushwhacker

[Bushwhacker]

Did you set your CNC with the pattern and let it go?? Nice wood!!

No, don't have a CNC,
But I know someone who does.
What are you doing next week John?

hehe

Bushwhacker

[Herb Stoops]

Upon looking closely ,I think you did darn good with the spacing for drilling like you did. That is a lot of holes to keep spaced as perfectly as you did. I don't think a CNC could have done a better job, faster maybe, but not any better.
HErb

[Cherryville Chuck]

I use a method of drilling pin holes for moveable shelves that would work for this too. I cut strips on my table saw out of scrap, usually mdf, the width of which is equal to the spacing I want between holes and then cut the strips into individual spacers. I clamp a piece of panel board to my DP table that is long enough to add a stop and be able to drill all the holes I need. The first hole(s) get drilled with no spacer then I add one for every new row. I use spacers against the fence as well to space the holes in the row evenly apart. It's a bit tedious but it works well. You just have to keep the debris from the holes from getting in between the spacers and fence or end stop.

Botelho from Brazil, who was a member on the old forum uses a similar method for making featherboards.