Delta T 2 Table saw

[Bushwhacker]

Since I recently posted that my contractors saw had gone belly up, I bought a delta T 2 from Lowes.
I have only had it for 2 months. This morning while cutting 2inch hard wood stock, it quit in mid cut.
Just stopped.
I first checked the breakers, but they were all still fine, check the power source, and it was all good.
I then got worried about my warrantee. I could not find the serial number of the saw.
I unplugged it and spun it around and with a flashlight, search all over it.
Thats when I found the reset button on the back side of the motor,
I pushed it and heard an audible click. After pugging it back in I started it back up. It ran like a top.
My problem is, "Where is the serial number.?".
It's not on the instruction page or the operator's manual, and not on the Lowes receipt.
My worry now is, "if I ever need the warrantee, I will need the serial number to give the service department.
Have any of you the same saw or have an idea of where it could be.

Bushwhacker

[Herb Stoops]

I hope your saw holds up well and you don't need the serial number. Is there any Chinese writing on it anywhere? the motor serial# is separate,on the motor.
And to think Delta used to be the standard of the industry....

Does this help?
"DELTA Table Saws at Lowes.com
DELTA Contractor saws 10-in 15-Amp Contractor Table Saw with Fixed Stand Model # 36-725T2 Find My Store for pricing and availability 492 DELTA 5000 10-in 15-Amp Table Saw Model # 36-5100T2 Find My Store for pricing and availability 6 DELTA 5000 10-in 15-Amp Contractor Table Saw Model # 36-5052T2 Find My Store for pricing and availability 10 DELTA"

Herb

[smitty10101]

Bushwacker

I have a similar saw (possibly series #1)

My serial # is on the back plate by the exhaust chute for the dust collection
Facing the back of the saw to the right and down slightly.
On a stick on decal.

hope this helps

smitty

[Stick486]

This morning while cutting 2inch hard wood stock, it quit in mid cut.
Just stopped.

Thermal overload...
ease up on the cutting and make sure blade is sharp and the right one for the job...

should have bought the Bosch...

[smitty10101]

"should have bought the Bosch"

correct me if I'm wrong--- but aren't the Bosch saws all portable ones??

The Delta is a pseudo contractor' saw. More stationary than portable. With up to 3 cast iron wings in addition to the main cast iron table.

I'm NOT arguing about/with the CS with Bosch---But the world doesn't revolve around Bosch.
There are other options to fulfill people's needs.

Now if Bosch could only sell their flesh-sensing technology here in the States ---wishing & hoping!!!

[Herb Stoops]

I got rid of the folding stand since I was only going to use it in the shop and made a cabinet for it.
Herb

[smitty10101]

Herb doesn't it have composite tables & not metal ones (either cast or stamped steel?)
Making it more lightweight for portability.
With the stand I would question stability---on ALL those types of saws.

smitty

[Stick486]

Herb doesn't it have composite tables & not metal ones (either cast or stamped steel?)

.
cast aluminum....
.

With the stand I would question stability---on ALL those types of saws.

.
that's a pretty broad statement when you evidently lack VOE...
I have it for both saws...
also the stability of the Bosch stands have never been an issue..

[Herb Stoops]

I think mine came with an aluminum tube stand, that folds up for transport. It had nice big 10"dia. rubber tired wheels on it. And handy for job site work.
Herb

[smitty10101]

that's a pretty broad statement when you evidently lack VOE.

You are ABSOLUTELY correct!!! although it wasn't exactly a "statement". It was though, a question, without the question mark to end the sentence.

Without getting into exact dimensions---don't "those types of saws" have diminished surface area in front of the blade?

I truly understand the validity for their existence----I just would put "those saws" into a different category than either a contractor's saw or a cabinet saw.

Again, I wasn't knocking Bosch. I was just bringing up the possibilities of some differences between the two aforementioned saws.

[Stick486]

I had that saw...
thermal overload is going to be an on going issue if you don't baby it or do an up grade on the motor...
another thing... plan on your motor and arbor bearings failing...
never had that issue w/ the Bosch...

you added table inserts I added out riggers which made it quite easy to handle 60" BB well....
the guard and riving knife on the Bosch are far superior..

bottom line is I dumped the Delta and added more Bosch saws...
every image of my work you have ever seen the work was done using the Bosch TS....

[Bushwhacker]

Bushwacker

I have a similar saw (possibly series #1)

My serial # is on the back plate by the exhaust chute for the dust collection
Facing the back of the saw to the right and down slightly.
On a stick on decal.

hope this helps

smitty

I found it !
You got me in the right area.
Mine is on the lower cross bar of the stand facing the rear of the saw.

Bushwhacker

[Cherryville Chuck]

Bushwacker

I found it !
You got me in the right area.
Mine is on the lower cross bar of the stand facing the rear of the saw.

Bushwhacker

David wouldn't just the model # and the sales receipt be good enough? I bought a Sears 1HP direct drive back in the 80s. It had a thermal reset on the motor which would occasionally kick out. I sold it about 5 years ago and as far as I know it's still going. Use a thin blade with as few teeth as you can get when ripping. The Freud 1024 blade works pretty well on under powered saws.

[Herb Stoops]

My bosh has never gave me any problems, I do the larger work on the 12" 220v Craftsman saw.
Herb

[smitty10101]

@Bushwacker

What's the amperage for your saw

13 amps or 15 amps??

For a while there only 13 amps were available.

[Herb Stoops]

Which is critical the amperage on the breaker or the amperage on the motor?
Herb

[smitty10101]

with an uneducated guess---I'd say both.

If you overwork the saw it will draw more current & trip the breaker on the motor---if the motor is only a 13 amp motor.

If it's a 15 amp motor on a 15 amp circuit then the breaker will trip under a high current draw.

If it's on a 20 amp circuit then I would suggest that something else is going on.

But you know all that Herb so what was the point of your question?

I was just being curious as to what Delta was putting on their current offerings.

[Herb Stoops]

To answer your question, I am not too savvy on Electricity, I know a lot of the other countries use 240v. extensively. Here we use more 120v.
I have my 12" saw on a 240v circuit because that is the way it was wired when I got it,,a used saw. On the job sites,the distribution boxes had both, but most portable tools were 120v. I was wondering which would trip first the tool or the breaker, thats all.
Herb

[Bushwhacker]

@Bushwacker

What's the amperage for your saw

13 amps or 15 amps??

For a while there only 13 amps were available.

The book says it is a 15 amp induction motor.
It is on a 15 amp breaker..
I have a 220 line coming into my shop, and I split it down each leg of the breakers box. giving me two legs at 110.
The saw is alone on one 15 amp breaker.
Once I got it running again I continued my cuts but push the wood through very slowly, This time I had no problems..
If I was to replace the motor with a 17 amp, I believe they have one for it. Would i have to up the size of the breaker to maybe a 20 amp, just for the saw?
I have everything in my shop separated on the breakers. I have a wall plug every 4 feet all through the shop.
I have one side of the shop on one 15 amp breaker, and the other side on another. The over head lights are on a separate breaker.
My air compressor is separate.
Since I am the only one in the shop working, I can only run one tool at a time.
Sandras gym is on a separate breaker. She plays her Tv or music while she works out, none of her Equipment is powered.
The whole shop and gym are on a separate 30 amp breaker at the house.
I normally have no problems with the saw except as now, I am cutting 2 inch hard woods , glued into 2 inch by 2 inch , strips, and glued into 16 by 26 inch slabs for cutting boards. I am making a Chaotic board which requires several cuts both straight across and diagonally.
Tomorrow I will switch out the 10 inch blade for an 80 tooth blade, the one I am currently using is a 40 tooth , which may be why it is having to work to cut through the slab.

Any ideas anyone?
And no, I am not going to go out and buy a Bosch.
I was going to but it was a toss up between that and indoor plumbing.

Bushwhacker

[Herb Stoops]

On my 12" 80t combination blade on the craftsman saw , It does a superb job both Ripping and crosscutting. On the Bosch,I have a 60t 10"combo and it does an acceptable job. On the old Hi Speed blades I always heard that more teeth for cross cut and fewer teeth for rip. and in between for a combination. On the 12" RA saw I used the 80 t combination and I is smooth as glass. All are Diablows
HErb

[smitty10101]

@Bushwacker

If you have 220v in the shop and convenient to the table saw---( I envy you)

MAYBE

you can convert the saw to 220v.

My saw is 15 amp also and in the manual (rtfm??) it goes through the process of converting the motor & cord to 220v

IIRC there is a switch on the motor housing and you will need to split/rearrange the wires at the switch.
the manual made it sound easy.

[Bushwhacker]

@Bushwacker

If you have 220v in the shop and convenient to the table saw---( I envy you)

MAYBE

you can convert the saw to 220v.

My saw is 15 amp also and in the manual (rtfm??) it goes through the process of converting the motor & cord to 220v

IIRC there is a switch on the motor housing and you will need to split/rearrange the wires at the switch.
the manual made it sound easy.

I don't think I will be doing that. Sandra complains that the lights dim in the house when I run the planer or the TS.
I was just considering maybe replacing the motor with a 17 amp. I'll keep that in mind tho.
Thanks Smitty

Bushwhacker

[Bushwhacker]

On my 12" 80t combination blade on the craftsman saw , It does a superb job both Ripping and crosscutting. On the Bosch,I have a 60t 10"combo and it does an acceptable job. On the old Hi Speed blades I always heard that more teeth for cross cut and fewer teeth for rip. and in between for a combination. On the 12" RA saw I used the 80 t combination and I is smooth as glass. All are Diablows
HErb

We are in the middle of a thunder/rain storm at the moment.
I have some work to do in the house today, so may not get to the shop at all or until later.
Once I do, I'll let you know how that 80 tooth is working on the TS.
Thanks Herb

Bushwhacker

[smitty10101]

Tomorrow I will switch out the 10 inch blade for an 80 tooth blade, the one I am currently using is a 40 tooth

I "THINK" an 80-tooth blade will put more strain on the saw than a 40-tooth blade

80 teeth are usually on a cross-cut blade and 40 & below on a rip blade.


so are you cross-cutting the stock or ripping it down? A chaotic cutting board is usually done on a band saw---at least we did in the community workshop.

As an aside----what/why the hell are you making 2" thick cutting boards? Are you afraid the countertop will blow away in the Texas wind??

[Cherryville Chuck]

@Bushwacker

What's the amperage for your saw

13 amps or 15 amps??

For a while there only 13 amps were available.

The book says it is a 15 amp induction motor.
It is on a 15 amp breaker..
I have a 220 line coming into my shop, and I split it down each leg of the breakers box. giving me two legs at 110.
The saw is alone on one 15 amp breaker.
Once I got it running again I continued my cuts but push the wood through very slowly, This time I had no problems..
If I was to replace the motor with a 17 amp, I believe they have one for it. Would i have to up the size of the breaker to maybe a 20 amp, just for the saw?
I have everything in my shop separated on the breakers. I have a wall plug every 4 feet all through the shop.
I have one side of the shop on one 15 amp breaker, and the other side on another. The over head lights are on a separate breaker.
My air compressor is separate.
Since I am the only one in the shop working, I can only run one tool at a time.
Sandras gym is on a separate breaker. She plays her Tv or music while she works out, none of her Equipment is powered.
The whole shop and gym are on a separate 30 amp breaker at the house.
I normally have no problems with the saw except as now, I am cutting 2 inch hard woods , glued into 2 inch by 2 inch , strips, and glued into 16 by 26 inch slabs for cutting boards. I am making a Chaotic board which requires several cuts both straight across and diagonally.
Tomorrow I will switch out the 10 inch blade for an 80 tooth blade, the one I am currently using is a 40 tooth , which may be why it is having to work to cut through the slab.

Any ideas anyone?
And no, I am not going to go out and buy a Bosch.
I was going to but it was a toss up between that and indoor plumbing.

Bushwhacker

The more teeth on the blade, the more power you need to drive it. Ideally a thin kerf blade with 18 teeth would cut the easiest but I only usually see those in full kerf. Twenty three or twenty four is probably what you have to go with like the 10 by 24 Diablo by Freud. Also, most of the high tooth count blades are only meant to cut 1" or less material.In many of them the saw plate thickens up 1" in to add stability since they are meant for fine cuts. If you are using a 40 tooth on a saw like that it's already too many teeth. In order to get better cuts you could add saw stabilizers onto the arbor if there is room. You could also add a zero clearance insert in your saw.

[Stick486]

More teeth need more power..
go w/ a glue line by Freud...
https://www.freudtools.com/products/LM75R010...

from what I've read on the electrical knowledge... WOW!!!

[i][b]Electricity in the Woodshop.pdf[/b][/i]

[Bushwhacker]

@Bushwacker

What's the amperage for your saw

13 amps or 15 amps??

For a while there only 13 amps were available.

The book says it is a 15 amp induction motor.
It is on a 15 amp breaker..
I have a 220 line coming into my shop, and I split it down each leg of the breakers box. giving me two legs at 110.
The saw is alone on one 15 amp breaker.
Once I got it running again I continued my cuts but push the wood through very slowly, This time I had no problems..
If I was to replace the motor with a 17 amp, I believe they have one for it. Would i have to up the size of the breaker to maybe a 20 amp, just for the saw?
I have everything in my shop separated on the breakers. I have a wall plug every 4 feet all through the shop.
I have one side of the shop on one 15 amp breaker, and the other side on another. The over head lights are on a separate breaker.
My air compressor is separate.
Since I am the only one in the shop working, I can only run one tool at a time.
Sandras gym is on a separate breaker. She plays her Tv or music while she works out, none of her Equipment is powered.
The whole shop and gym are on a separate 30 amp breaker at the house.
I normally have no problems with the saw except as now, I am cutting 2 inch hard woods , glued into 2 inch by 2 inch , strips, and glued into 16 by 26 inch slabs for cutting boards. I am making a Chaotic board which requires several cuts both straight across and diagonally.
Tomorrow I will switch out the 10 inch blade for an 80 tooth blade, the one I am currently using is a 40 tooth , which may be why it is having to work to cut through the slab.

Any ideas anyone?
And no, I am not going to go out and buy a Bosch.
I was going to but it was a toss up between that and indoor plumbing.

Bushwhacker

The more teeth on the blade, the more power you need to drive it. Ideally a thin kerf blade with 18 teeth would cut the easiest but I only usually see those in full kerf. Twenty three or twenty four is probably what you have to go with like the 10 by 24 Diablo by Freud. Also, most of the high tooth count blades are only meant to cut 1" or less material.In many of them the saw plate thickens up 1" in to add stability since they are meant for fine cuts. If you are using a 40 tooth on a saw like that it's already too many teeth. In order to get better cuts you could add saw stabilizers onto the arbor if there is room. You could also add a zero clearance insert in your saw.

So, I went backwards with the tooth count.
I read on Utube that more teeth means easier cutting.
I switch the 40 tooth for an 80 tooth and had more trouble getting though the material I was cutting.
I am to understand that an 20 or 24 tooth count would cut better and easier?
is that right?

Bushwhacker

[Bushwhacker]

Tomorrow I will switch out the 10 inch blade for an 80 tooth blade, the one I am currently using is a 40 tooth

I "THINK" an 80-tooth blade will put more strain on the saw than a 40-tooth blade

80 teeth are usually on a cross-cut blade and 40 & below on a rip blade.


so are you cross-cutting the stock or ripping it down? A chaotic cutting board is usually done on a band saw---at least we did in the community workshop.

As an aside----what/why the hell are you making 2" thick cutting boards? Are you afraid the countertop will blow away in the Texas wind??

My little band saw would not cut 2 inch hard woods.
By the time I plane the boards flat after all my cuts and glue ups, they are a bit less than 2 inches thick

Bushwhacker

20 minutes later

Well butter my butt and call me a biscuit, I switch the 80 tooth for a 24tooth and ran a 4 x 4 block of oak though the saw. And even with the blade being buried in the wood, It cut like butter.
Of course I have already made 5 separate different direction cuts on this cutting board and it is in its last glue up.
Thats OK, I learned something today from you guys.
Thats why after searching the utube for answers, I went where i should have started , back to the forum.
Thanks to all of you.
I am sure this will not be my last cutting board.
and yes, we have some serious winds down here in south central Texas.

Bushwhacker

[Stick486]

I am to understand that an 20 or 24 tooth count would cut better and easier?
is that right?

correct...

[Cherryville Chuck]

Well butter my butt and call me a biscuit, I switch the 80 tooth for a 24tooth and ran a 4 x 4 block of oak though the saw. And even with the blade being buried in the wood, It cut like butter.


Bushwhacker

I made the same mistake years ago and ruined a 60 tooth blade in the process. One of the reasons is the gullet size. The more teeth, the smaller the gullets and they fill up faster. Especially when ripping where the fibers are longer than if you are cross cutting. Once full the blade starts dragging from the friction and the blade heats up too. That 60 tooth wound up with a permanent wobble. You can get away with a high tooth count blade when you are doing thin material because there aren't that many teeth in the cut at a time so they empty quickly. Same applies to bandsaw teeth. If you are ripping thick material you don't want very many teeth to the inch. The band sawmills that use a 1 1/4" band are usually 2/3 tooth per inch or in other words 1 1/3 inches from tip to tip according to what I've read. I have an 18" bandsaw and that's what I was using for a while but it's a little wider than recommended and didn't ride quite right on the wheels.

[smitty10101]

I have a 220 line coming into my shop, and I split it down each leg of the breakers box. giving me two legs at 110

Hey Bushwacker----If I'm reading between the lines correctly (a BIG if)

#1 You, physically, put the electricity into the shop--not a professional electrician
#2 You put a sub-panel in with possibly only two breakers in the sub-panel
#3 The workshop & gym are a separate building from the main house
#4 The breakers in the house are on the same leg and not one above the other.
#5 Why separate breakers in the house? Why not one double?

So some questions

what size wire did you run 10 AWG, 12 AWG, or something else?
how did you run it? underground? overhead?
If underground is it bare cable or in conduit?
If underground is it a bitch to redo? (Texas sand or Texas clay?)
Distance from the main house & outbuilding?

The reason being, it MIGHT be possible to upgrade the service & eliminate several problems or switch the location of the breakers in the main house.

Just giving this problem some thought.

Any electricians on this forum??

[Bushwhacker]

I have a 220 line coming into my shop, and I split it down each leg of the breakers box. giving me two legs at 110

Hey Bushwacker----If I'm reading between the lines correctly (a BIG if)

#1 You, physically, put the electricity into the shop--not a professional electrician
#2 You put a sub-panel in with possibly only two breakers in the sub-panel
#3 The workshop & gym are a separate building from the main house
#4 The breakers in the house are on the same leg and not one above the other.
#5 Why separate breakers in the house? Why not one double?

So some questions

what size wire did you run 10 AWG, 12 AWG, or something else?
how did you run it? underground? overhead?
If underground is it bare cable or in conduit?
If underground is it a bitch to redo? (Texas sand or Texas clay?)
Distance from the main house & outbuilding?

The reason being, it MIGHT be possible to upgrade the service & eliminate several problems or switch the location of the breakers in the main house.

Just giving this problem some thought.

Any electricians on this forum??

The house is a wood frame 1960 on blocks.
I tore it down to the studs and removed most interior walls, rewired it, replumbed it and insulated it.
It may have been an old house of Rainmans, since it had no insulation.
I installed beams at load bearing walls that I removed. Tape and floated it, added 4 feet to the front of the house.
I have a separate story about that.
Resided it and ran all the interior wires to the corner where the breaker box would be installed out side. The city would not allow me to hang the breaker box and weather head, so hire an electrician for that.
Once they finished installing the box, I ran all the wires through the wall in connected them to the breakers.
Yes, I ran the wire to the garage. Not sure any more what size it was, I looked it up due to the distance to the garage.
It is over head.
I just went out to look at it and can not see the size but it is very stiff wire.
The breaker box in my shop has 10 breakers in two legs. all 15 amp.
It has been working well for over 24 years and since I will be 80 next week.
I have no plans to change anything.
We have Texas black gumbo clay here.
Bushwhacker

It is around 60 feet from the breaker box to the garage.

[Cherryville Chuck]

I've been doing all my own wiring for 50 years now. I went back down to Alabama a few years ago and helped my brother wire his place. There were a few minor differences from here to there but not anything significant. He was allowed to install his own service David so regional rules may differ slightly as well. Since your shop is only 60' from the main service you didn't need to go larger in wire size. 75' And farther you should. For a 30 amp load #10 was adequate. If you go to a 17 amp motor then you should run a #12 wire, but the saw would run on what you have. It would only draw 17 amps if it were under heavy load. The wire you currently have would handle that but probably make it slightly more prone to trip the breaker or reset because of a slight increase in resistance over having a larger wire. Code says switch the wire though.

What I would suggest instead is switching to a 220 motor which would halve the load between the wires. You'd only have 7.5 amps on either wire then.You wouldn't need to change the wire for that. On a motor load you wouldn't need a neutral wire. You need that extra wire on dryers and stoves because the displays, lights, and timers operate on 110. I assume with a small saw like that that you move it around. If you go to a 220 motor then you do need to change the wall plug to a 15 amp 220 configuration. You would also need to cut the plug on your saw off and replace it with a 220 one and if you were using an extension cord to it you'd need to make one with the correct ends on it too. That's what I did for my stationary planer that I put castors on.

[Bushwhacker]

I've been doing all my own wiring for 50 years now. I went back down to Alabama a few years ago and helped my brother wire his place. There were a few minor differences from here to there but not anything significant. He was allowed to install his own service David so regional rules may differ slightly as well. Since your shop is only 60' from the main service you didn't need to go larger in wire size. 75' And farther you should. For a 30 amp load #10 was adequate. If you go to a 17 amp motor then you should run a #12 wire, but the saw would run on what you have. It would only draw 17 amps if it were under heavy load. The wire you currently have would handle that but probably make it slightly more prone to trip the breaker or reset because of a slight increase in resistance over having a larger wire. Code says switch the wire though.

What I would suggest instead is switching to a 220 motor which would halve the load between the wires. You'd only have 7.5 amps on either wire then.You wouldn't need to change the wire for that. On a motor load you wouldn't need a neutral wire. You need that extra wire on dryers and stoves because the displays, lights, and timers operate on 110. I assume with a small saw like that that you move it around. If you go to a 220 motor then you do need to change the wall plug to a 15 amp 220 configuration. You would also need to cut the plug on your saw off and replace it with a 220 one and if you were using an extension cord to it you'd need to make one with the correct ends on it too. That's what I did for my stationary planer that I put castors on.

So, Chuck, are you busy this week end??

[Cherryville Chuck]

So, Chuck, are you busy this week end??

You're in luck. I understand the border restrictions have been lifted on the unjabbed heathens like me.The bad news is that it would take me at least 4-5 days to drive down.

Truthfully, it's such a simple job to rewire an outlet that I can easily walk you through it. If you stay within the 15 amp load it's nothing to switch it to a 220 outlet. Any motor needing more power than that would be too big for your saw. My 3hp Unisaw only uses 12 gauge wire and a 20 amp breaker.

All you need to do is take the white neutral wire in your breaker box and connect it and the black wire to a 15 amp 220v breaker. For a motor load you don't need an extra wire. I like to take the ends of the white wire and wrap some red tape around them which shows anyone else who might be working on the circuit that that white wire is now carrying a load. At the outlet the wires go to you need to remove the standard outlet and replace it with one configured for 15 amp/ 220 volts. Just attach the white and black wires to the terminals on the plug and the bare ground to its screw and that's it, you're done.
The only other thing that has to be done is match the plugs on the end of cords to the outlet. Up here all those, the outlet and plug ends, are around $10-15 each but it has to be done for safety's sake. My brother in law bought a place years ago and the previous owner had rewired a circuit on the shed for 220 using 110 volt components. We plugged a trouble light into it not knowing better and the bulb exploded when we turned it on.

[smitty10101]

@Bushwacker

Give us an idea of your hookup both in the main panel in the house & the sub in the outbuilding.

In the sub-panel in the outbuilding---is one breaker for your shop? That one breaker controls both the saw & the lights? The gym is on the other breaker with mainly just lights? She has no equipment running like a treadmill or such?

IF that's the case, can you not just put your lights on her breaker? Having both the saw & lights together is (in my opinion) dangerous.

In the main panel how are the breakers for the outbuilding arranged? Are they served by the same leg.

what is the type of wiring? copper or aluminum? If it's aluminum have you checked ALL the screws both in the main & subpanel and the outlet boxes to make sure that they are ALL tight & secure?

Also how much amperage is being supplied by the power company? 100amps or 200 amps?

The reason I'm asking is b/c something just ain't right.
Somehow you are drawing a whole lot of juice when you run the saw. How much more is on in the house?

I'm sure to have more questions later.

[DaninVan]

One thing nobody's mentioned is the service to the house. I'm assuming it's an aerial service conductor rather than underground? If it hasn't been redone in 60+years there's an excellent chance the connectors at either end have suffered some corrosion. At the very least the tape wrap over the compression fittings is probably long gone. Can you get your utility company to check it out? Tell them you've been having flickering lights or something; that'll get their attention...

[Bushwhacker]

One thing nobody's mentioned is the service to the house. I'm assuming it's an aerial service conductor rather than underground? If it hasn't been redone in 60+years there's an excellent chance the connectors at either end have suffered some corrosion. At the very least the tape wrap over the compression fittings is probably long gone. Can you get your utility company to check it out? Tell them you've been having flickering lights or something; that'll get their attention...

I rewired the whole house in 1997 when I bought it, Then added the wire to the shop in the mid 20s around 2015 or so.
Thanks for the thought dan.

Bushwhacker

[Bushwhacker]

@Bushwacker

Give us an idea of your hookup both in the main panel in the house & the sub in the outbuilding.

In the sub-panel in the outbuilding---is one breaker for your shop? That one breaker controls both the saw & the lights? The gym is on the other breaker with mainly just lights? She has no equipment running like a treadmill or such?

IF that's the case, can you not just put your lights on her breaker? Having both the saw & lights together is (in my opinion) dangerous.

In the main panel how are the breakers for the outbuilding arranged? Are they served by the same leg.

what is the type of wiring? copper or aluminum? If it's aluminum have you checked ALL the screws both in the main & subpanel and the outlet boxes to make sure that they are ALL tight & secure?

Also how much amperage is being supplied by the power company? 100amps or 200 amps?

The reason I'm asking is b/c something just ain't right.
Somehow you are drawing a whole lot of juice when you run the saw. How much more is on in the house?

I'm sure to have more questions later.

The shop panel has 10 breakers and is split on two legs.
No she has nothing but her tv and music out there, maybe a fan at times.
Since I switched the saw blade to a 24 tooth, it has been working great, cuts like through butter, even heavy oak wood,.
In the house we have what I guess is the normal stuff running, central air, (which is new and lights, fridge. stuff like that.

Bushwhacker

[DaninVan]

One thing nobody's mentioned is the service to the house. I'm assuming it's an aerial service conductor rather than underground? If it hasn't been redone in 60+years there's an excellent chance the connectors at either end have suffered some corrosion. At the very least the tape wrap over the compression fittings is probably long gone. Can you get your utility company to check it out? Tell them you've been having flickering lights or something; that'll get their attention...

I rewired the whole house in 1997 when I bought it, Then added the wire to the shop in the mid 20s around 2015 or so.
Thanks for the thought dan.

Bushwhacker

Not the house, Bushwacker, the service entrance triplex cable from the street TO your home. The connections at the pole transformer and at the top of your service mast are exposed to the weather year after year. They take a serious beating. If they oxidize the resistance increases and the electricity supply becomes erratic. I'm guessing they haven't been inspected since the house was built. IF you had increased your service from 100Amps to 200Amps, then yes, they probably replaced the service drop from the street.