Drill Press table

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Cherryville Chuck
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Drill Press table

#1

Post by Cherryville Chuck »

I finally got around to building a DP table. The fence extrusion is from LV. Added a stop to it. The hold downs have pieces of 1/2” dowel glued in grooves so that they can clamp Dow various thicknesses. I can also put blocks under the backs for something really thick. The replaceable insert has threaded holes for 1/4” bolts to make removing it easy.

Toying with the idea of maybe putting one coat of polyurethane on it to help keep it clean.
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Re: Drill Press table

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Post by Stick486 »

That's well done... KUDOS..
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Re: Drill Press table

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Post by honesttjohn »

Cool!!!!!
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Re: Drill Press table

#4

Post by Biagio »

Hey Chuck,
Nice size. What is that you are using for the fence?

My DP sits in a corner, have had to limit the table size.
To make it more “disposable”, instead of T-track I used the Microjig matchfit dovetail bit to route dovetail tracks in the plywood top. Requires dovetail keys for the hold-downs instead of bolt heads, but no big deal. The table slides onto the DP steel table for quick removal -currently off while I have a cross slide vice in place.

I had a number of thinner plywood discs from cutting holes for downlighters, so I cut a matching inlay hole in the table top with a hole saw. The disc is inlayed flat with the table top, but eccentric to the spindle, so that when chewed up, it can be rotated several times to a fresh segment before being replaced.

I plan to steal your idea for the glued bits of dowel under the hold-downs.
Cherryville Chuck
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Re: Drill Press table

#5

Post by Cherryville Chuck »

Biagio wrote: Tue Feb 11, 2025 2:17 pm Hey Chuck,
Nice size. What is that you are using for the fence?

My DP sits in a corner, have had to limit the table size.
To make it more “disposable”, instead of T-track I used the Microjig matchfit dovetail bit to route dovetail tracks in the plywood top. Requires dovetail keys for the hold-downs instead of bolt heads, but no big deal. The table slides onto the DP steel table for quick removal -currently off while I have a cross slide vice in place.

I had a number of thinner plywood discs from cutting holes for downlighters, so I cut a matching inlay hole in the table top with a hole saw. The disc is inlayed flat with the table top, but eccentric to the spindle, so that when chewed up, it can be rotated several times to a fresh segment before being replaced.

I plan to steal your idea for the glued bits of dowel under the hold-downs.
The fence extrusion is from Lee Valley. I don't know if it is a standard size or not. You can have a batch made custom to order if you order enough lineal feet of it. Here is the link to it and there are a few accessories that fit it. https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/ha ... slot-track I used a saw drill to ream out the hole in the hold downs. It only took a few seconds to do it with one of them. They are great for enlarging holes or "moving" one slightly sideways when it isn't quite lined up with a bolt or screw hole. I got them off ebay.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/176744997953?_ ... R8ClqJOfZQ

I have a cross slide vise for my DP too but maybe 20 years ago I bought a small milling machine with cross slide table and I haven't used the DP one since. I have the X shaped slots in my DP table which made it a PITA to mount anyway. The new table probably won't come off very often but it does just sit there too so not a big deal.
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Re: Drill Press table

#6

Post by Biagio »

I could have used a larger size of saw drill when making the jaws for the Dubuque hand screw kits (got one from LV then found some locally). Drilling the angled slots was a nuisance - the DP I had at the time (a 70-yr old Rockwell) did not have a tilting table. But my biggest saw drill is 8 mm.
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Re: Drill Press table

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Post by Cherryville Chuck »

Biagio wrote: Wed Feb 12, 2025 9:51 am I could have used a larger size of saw drill when making the jaws for the Dubuque hand screw kits (got one from LV then found some locally). Drilling the angled slots was a nuisance - the DP I had at the time (a 70-yr old Rockwell) did not have a tilting table. But my biggest saw drill is 8 mm.
My biggest is 6.5mm. I haven't seen one that big. I guess you're getting up to the size where you could use a small diameter rasp. I bought this set of small raps off Amazon that have been handy for things like that. I wouldn't mind a set that is slightly larger to go with this one. https://www.amazon.ca/KALIM-Rubberized- ... 149&sr=8-5

I suppose you could put a coping saw blade through the hole in your clamp jaws and saw then chisel out the waste too.
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Re: Drill Press table

#8

Post by OutoftheWoodwork »

Ken finally got around to getting me a new drill press - Harbor Freight Bauer. It got me through the hole drilling of the tea light holders I made for my craft fair. Now if only it would get warm enough to get back out in the shop to finish my cleanup from that show... *groan*
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Re: Drill Press table

#9

Post by Cherryville Chuck »

That's the safest way to drill holes that big, especially with Forstner bits. You can drill by hand if you drill a hole through a piece of panel or a board and then clamp that to your workpiece so that the bit doesn't skate around when you try to start the hole. You have to be careful doing it still. A DP is a hard tool to do without.
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Re: Drill Press table

#10

Post by DaninVan »

Re DP table fence; can you buy 8020 aluminum extrusion in S. Africa, Biagio?
https://8020.net/shop
https://www.amazon.ca/Aluminum-Extrusio ... =8-55&th=1
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Re: Drill Press table

#11

Post by Biagio »

Hi Dan, yes indeed. We used to extrude our own, but probably mostly from China now. I used some 40 mm by 80mm local extrusion for a router table fence, now sorry I did not buy a few metres - the price has gone through the roof.
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