Bearing bandsaw guides

[roxanne562001]

I just did some horse trading and ended up with a Ohio forge 14" import bandsaw. It was made in 1986 according to the tag. It runs smooth and seems pretty good overall. I was thinking about giving it a good overhaul and tune up. Replacing the tires and so on. I was wondering if anyone has tried using the replacement bearing style guides like these and if it is worth it to put them on over using cool blocks.

s-l1600.jpg

s-l1600.jpg

The saw looks just like the attached photo.

[DaninVan]

What's the cost difference, Roxanne, just out of curiosity?

[Nickp]

Have not used cooling blocks but love the bearings. Easy to adjust and stay in alignment...especially the thrust bearing.

[Stick486]

Have not used cooling blocks but love the bearings. Easy to adjust and stay in alignment...especially the thrust bearing.

same here and Carter rules....

@Nickp
this post disappeared when I hit submit and is a do over...

[sunnybob]

I would recommend trying it as is first. Cool blocks have been around a very long time, theyre not all bad.

Get used to the saw, and very quickly you will decide what is good and what is bad with it. Then you can buy go faster goodies

Changing things right from the start can hide other faults and send you on a long and winding road to frustration.

[Herb Stoops]

I changed all mine to cool blocks a long time ago. I like cool blocks and ceramic thrust bearing. Have them on both my large 14" and 12"
HErb

[roxanne562001]

What's the cost difference, Roxanne, just out of curiosity?

The cool blocks are about $10.00 and the bearing guides are $65 with shipping.

[roxanne562001]

For the price I will give the cool blocks a try first and get everything adjusted. It has a ball bearing thrust guide already looks like it is factory with metal blocks. I will get everything adjusted first. Thanks for the insight.

[Herb Stoops]

I have used a couple of different types over the years. Phenolic cool blocks you can adjust the full width of the blade and the set in the blade creates groove in the face of the cool block. This allows you to set the guide full width of the blade rather than behind the set of the teeth.
The solid hardened steel cool blocks have to be set behind the set of the tooth or it will wipe out the set.
The composite ones made from ,some metal dust and graphite or some such thing like maybe aluminum filings ,are soft enough so the the tooth set doesn't seem to bother them.
The ceramic thrust bearing on mine is mounted @ right angle to the blade and doesnot rotate, The blade creates a groove in the side of the ceramic wheel and holds the blade straight. When the groove gets too deep, just rotate the wheel and start another groove. and so on. Some saws have the metal bearing mounted parrellel with the blade so it turns with the blade, I am not sure how well a ceramic wheel will work on those because they are not made to rotate.
It looks like maybe the ceramic cool blocks need to be mounted behind the set in the blade.

HErb

[Cherryville Chuck]

Getting the band to track right is more important than the guides. A band that has enough set on the teeth and is tracking on center barely needs the guides, at least when straight cutting. I have an 18" and neither cool blocks or bearing guides fit it so I go with the stock equipment. I can run up to 1.25" bands although manual says 1". At 1.25 there isn't much tracking adjustment possible but I wrongly thought because it's wide it should track better. It was a 2/3 tpi band for resawing. Right now I have a 1/2" band on that is meant for cutting green wood so a little extra set I think and it's faster than the old 1.25" band did and straighter too. I think this one is a 4tpi.

[HandyDan]

I have a saw with cool blocks and another with bearings. I like the cool blocks better. The bearings are noisy and don't seem to last very long. Olsen brand cool blocks are what I'm using.