Workers Of Wood

I have begun clearing out my shop to work on it once again... Watch this space for other updates pertaining to various curse words and spiteful utterings...

uh-huh...

Sominus wrote: ↑Tue Feb 09, 2021 1:53 pm I have begun clearing out my shop to work on it once again... Watch this space for other updates pertaining to various curse words and spiteful utterings...

I wonder if they're the same ones I use...

Oh I've got a magnitude of words-some that would make a sailor blush. The worst Irish temper ain't got nuttin on me. Ken will attest to that, fer sure!!!

Nickp wrote: ↑Tue Feb 09, 2021 4:06 pm

Sominus wrote: ↑Tue Feb 09, 2021 1:53 pm I have begun clearing out my shop to work on it once again... Watch this space for other updates pertaining to various curse words and spiteful utterings...

I wonder if they're the same ones I use...

Likely, but with a few more “y’all”s thrown in.

So I actually got into the shop today... two trips to the dumpster, one to the storage unit. I think another session like that and I MIGHT be at the point where I can continue with the build again...

Good to hear...Congrats...!

Nickp wrote: ↑Sun May 02, 2021 5:35 pm Good to hear...Congrats...!

yup...

Maybe I’ll put in one of these:

Saw a youtube video about epoxy coating of garage floors:

As I (slowly, but surely) work on my garage, I wonder if I should do something similar. There are some stable cracks in the floor through which some very minor moisture appears when it rains heavily, so it may not be the right solution. Ideally the floor would be sealed against this moisture weeping as part of the process. (I figure if I'm getting everything out of there at some point, I might as well address the floor...)

Anyone? @Stick486 ?

There should have been a moisture barrier down before the floor was poured. Are these hairline cracks or cracks as wide as a sheet of paper, or wider? If they are haireline, then the seal coat ought to fill them,if wider then maybe use an epoxy filler before the seal coat.
herb

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Thu Jun 01, 2023 3:48 pm There should have been a moisture barrier down before the floor was poured. Are these hairline cracks or cracks as wide as a sheet of paper, or wider? If they are haireline, then the seal coat ought to fill them,if wider then maybe use an epoxy filler before the seal coat.
herb

They are hairline...

Sominus wrote: ↑Thu Jun 01, 2023 3:07 pm I wonder if I should do something similar.

go for it...
hairlines will take care of themselves...
wider -

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Thu Jun 01, 2023 3:48 pm There should have been a moisture barrier down before the floor was poured.

there should have been a lot of things ....

Stick486 wrote: ↑Thu Jun 01, 2023 5:20 pm

Sominus wrote: ↑Thu Jun 01, 2023 3:07 pm I wonder if I should do something similar.

go for it...
hairlines will take care of themselves...
wider - Sikaflex-Self-Leveling-Sealant.pdf

Many hairlines recede...

The fact that moisture rises up through your floor is an indication that hydraulic pressure under it increases at times. How much is the question? My second job out of high school was building sewage treatment plants in Alabama. They were relatively small, designed for housing developments, hospitals, schools, etc. that were not near main sewer lines. Having sewage treatment as opposed to septic tanks was a condition of getting FHA loans.

The treatment tanks looked a lot like boat hulls. Eight inch thick walls with a thicker section at the top to cause the effluent to roll. Average overall height was around 10'. We built three tanks 60 something feet long for a new housing development. We only had the space around them half backfilled (only about 2' was to be above grade). We left for the weekend and over the weekend we had heavy rains. The tanks were at the bottom of a hill. When we came back on Monday we found the middle tank had lifted 5" from the hydraulic pressure under it.

You can seal the cracks but there is no guarantee that they will hold, depending on how much pressure there is underneath. Ideally a sump drain/sump pump would fix that problem but I don't know that it will be practical under your circumstances or where you would drain the water to. It's a fix that is best employed before you pour the floor since you need a gravel base and and a drain grid leading to the sump for best results. I'm not trying to discourage you from trying the sealer but just letting you know it may not be a fix.

Chuck is right. If it does still leak, then I would try cutting a sump hole in the floor12''X12'" in an obscure place. To see if there is gravel under the slab. Then if there is, then install a small sump pump and route it out to a flowerbed. it can be made to turn on auto with a float switch.
Hopefully you will not have to do that.

When was the house built? Is it an attached garage or a basement?
Herb

@Cherryville Chuck @Herb Stoops ...

this whole detached building is the epitome of cobbled together...
water intrusion is a minor nothing...
the slab is at zero elevation... framing is a haphazard joke and cut nailed directly to the slab.. the roof center sags... no eves.. butt scabbed 16' OHD header... nothing follows an OC layout...
and on and on...

Stick486 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 02, 2023 5:19 pm @Cherryville Chuck @Herb Stoops ...

this whole detached building is the epitome of cobbled together...
water intrusion is a minor nothing...
the slab is at zero elevation... framing is a haphazard joke and cut nailed directly to the slab.. the roof center sags... no eves.. butt scabbed 16' OHD header... nothing follows an OC layout...
and on and on...

I didn't realize one of the locals from here drove down there and built that. In that case the best solution is to wear gumboots on rainy days.

Stick486 wrote: ↑Fri Jun 02, 2023 5:19 pm @Cherryville Chuck @Herb Stoops ...

this whole detached building is the epitome of cobbled together...
water intrusion is a minor nothing...
the slab is at zero elevation... framing is a haphazard joke and cut nailed directly to the slab.. the roof center sags... no eves.. butt scabbed 16' OHD header... nothing follows an OC layout...
and on and on...

Geez, @Stick486 ... You're tearing my poor little building apart...

Sominus wrote: ↑Sat Jun 03, 2023 11:20 am Geez, @Stick486 ... You're tearing my poor little building apart...

it's doing that on it's own..

Micheal, I think you are doing it a great favor and will in the end have a very serviceable shop. With the little extra work that is required,will pay off in the savings and hassle with the HOA,permits,and tearing down/disposal of the old building and starting over.
Herb

With a lot of Stick's help we are doing a lot for it:
- Reinforced the walls with extra studs (and repaired some termite damage)
- Insulated (with moisture barrier)
- Plywood on the walls to stiffen everything

Coming soon (once I can stop spending time on school crap)
- Installation of new beam and joists
- fix sagging roof

And to think this all started when I went to hang a dust collector.

I remember back in the days {WWII} when my dad bought the farm several buildings had sagging roofs from no ties across , and with a hydraulic jack and long post under the ridge, and cable with turnbuckles across the top plates he jacked up the ridge and pulled the sides together to fix the problem.
Herb

I have used DryLok on weeping walls in basements...works great...! Paint it on like paint...thick and holds lots of PSI.

Check out the specs. If you're going to coat the floor this can be applied prior to coating...

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Sat Jun 03, 2023 10:55 pm I remember back in the days {WWII} when my dad bought the farm several buildings had sagging roofs from no ties across , and with a hydraulic jack and long post under the ridge, and cable with turnbuckles across the top plates he jacked up the ridge and pulled the sides together to fix the problem.
Herb

I did that to my garage. There was only three rafter ties and they failed. Pulled the sides together with come alongs while I jacked up the ridge with bottle jacks and long pieces of steel 2" square tubing.

HandyDan wrote: ↑Fri Jun 09, 2023 2:41 pm

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Sat Jun 03, 2023 10:55 pm I remember back in the days {WWII} when my dad bought the farm several buildings had sagging roofs from no ties across , and with a hydraulic jack and long post under the ridge, and cable with turnbuckles across the top plates he jacked up the ridge and pulled the sides together to fix the problem.
Herb

I did that to my garage. There was only three rafter ties and they failed. Pulled the sides together with come alongs while I jacked up the ridge with bottle jacks and long pieces of steel 2" square tubing.

This was before cable come alongs,they did have chain falls but they didn't work horizontally very well, even the hydraulic jacks were fairly new, we did have a Sears 1 ton we used a lot.
HErb

You can't always get rid of all the sagging at once. It took years for it to sag to where it is now, it can take a few years sometimes to get it back where it should be. If you are are jacking and it's not straightening you should stop and make small adjustments about every three months after that.

Usually the walls are bulging outward if the roof is sagging. By pulling the walls inwards while jacking, then moving to the quarter points on the ridge and doing the same, and back and forth til the ridge is flat. A good time to stop is if any thing starts to part, then cease and move to a quarter point. When moving leave the post to the ridge and the ties across the walls so that it doesn't sag back again. Once the ridge is flat, then add collar ties at the ridge and ceiling ties across the tops of the walls. If any rafters are sagging in the middle, then is a good time to add a support from the ceiling joist to the mid point of the rafter.
HErb

I got some meaningful work done in the shop today... I haven't been able to get into this corner in a LONG time while I worked on finishing my master's degree...

Sominus wrote: ↑Thu Feb 15, 2024 12:07 pm I got some meaningful work done in the shop today.

It's about damn time...

I've been having a bit of difficulty with my air compressor -- the belt (being a bit old) had stretched over time and I couldn't properly tension the pulleys since there was nothing other than the bolts holding the motor to the compressor frame to allow tension to change...

So, I ordered one of these: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B000E22T62?ps ... ct_details

Oh, and a new belt.

Seems like any compressor like the one I have should come with something like this anyway...

And then, while using low pressure, my horrible fright air stapler bit the dust. My uncle-in-law (who is living with us for a bit) suggested that I find a rebuild kit.

The adjustable mount should work for you. Another option that allows adjustment of a stretched belt would be a link type belt that you could remove a section from when stretched. https://www.motioncanada.ca/products/Me ... le%20Belts

As for the HF gun. I don't know that I'd bother. You can by reconned Bostiches on ebay that ware way better quality. I got a lot of 3 years ago for $75 I think. Gave one away, still using the other two.My favorite one to use though is my Porter Cable one. Just seems to work better and is more comfortable to handle. It's nice to have at least two because there are lots of jobs where you need two different lengths of brad and you need to go back and forth a lot.

That HF nailgun might be one they are manufacturing in that factory they have on the backside of the moon, there is no atmosphere to test them so they ship them back here.
Herb

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2024 2:31 pm That HF nailgun might be one they are manufacturing in that factory they have on the backside of the moon, there is no atmosphere to test them so they ship them back here.
Herb

If this thing has had 200 staples run through it, I'd be surprised.

I tested it for them.... It failed.

I think the $18 I paid for it is... ummm.. exorbitant.

Sominus wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2024 2:41 pm If this thing has had 200 staples run through it, I'd be surprised.

We be surprised too... very.....

Sominus wrote: ↑Mon Feb 26, 2024 2:41 pm I think the $18 I paid for it is... ummm.. exorbitant.

you got raped....

$18 ? I dunno...that's 3 coffees and muffins with change. Seems like you actually got what you paid for.

I guess I need to go buy something new...

You came out the better. $18.00 is cheap for that much experience,
Herb

So here is a pic of some of the work in process...
I have most of the "junk" gone and now am working on consolidating into the center/rear of the shop to allow me to bring in a beam. Also happening is the installation of a mini-split w/ inverter to cool/heat/dehumidify the shop in a more efficient and permanent manner. This will also allow me to de-install the window unit to be able to more efficiently utilize the wall space for cabinetry/shelving.

After (and concurrent with) installation of the mini split is relocation of all the wiring that goes into the house. I was able to purchase some Romex from an unknown (*ahem*) source for cheap which will help THAT part of the project along nicely.

There's still a fair amount of clutter/stuff that needs to be gone in other (unpictured) parts of the shop, but hopefully in another 3-4 weeks I'll at the point where I can get started on the structural work.

-M