Workers Of Wood

Do yourself a favor when you get it cleared. Get some semi gloss or gloss white paint and paint your walls. It will cut your lighting requirements by close to half plus making that a friendlier space to work in.

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Thu Apr 18, 2024 11:44 am Do yourself a favor when you get it cleared. Get some semi gloss or gloss white paint and paint your walls. It will cut your lighting requirements by close to half plus making that a friendlier space to work in.

That's already in the plans -- Stick has been more than generous with his wisdom and experience in helping me put this project together, and that was one of the things he mentioned early on. A couple of the things he mentioned I railed against a little but in the end have realized that he is correct. You really can't argue with his VOE !

Sominus wrote: ↑Thu Apr 18, 2024 11:55 am That's already in the plans

Use high gloss acrylic...

I don't know or don't remember what Stick has said but here are some other recommendations. Put OSB on the ceiling instead of drywall. If you're swinging boards around and accidentally hit it it's not going to matter. It holds screws well enough to mount led light fixtures to it. I put my sheets up single handed by screwing cleats on two joints. That allowed me to slide a sheet into the gap under the cleats to hold the sheet up one handed and the screws holding the cleats to the rafters gave me the spacing between the sheets.

Insulate. The same thing that keeps the shop warm will help keep it cool. It's an up front cost but it has long term returns. My shop is the coolest building I have and it isn't air conditioned. If you're going with batts double layer and crisscross the top layer. I have at least 10" in my ceiling. Go 12 if you're using blown in. If your eaves are open staple some 1/4- 1/2" mesh wire over them to keep critters out.

Whatever code says about venting the attic space- double it. You need to keep that hot air flowing out of that space. Put vents or whirly birds on the roof if you have to. Make sure you have good air flow through the eaves. That's why I suggested mesh instead of soffit material.

Hey I’m not sure , but I don’t think I seen any insulation in there ?

It is insulated behind the sheathing. I won’t say it is insulated particularly robustly, but it is much better than it was. This weekend I did 80% of the install of a 2 ton mini-split/inverter, which is going to keep temp/humidity manageable with much greater efficiency than the wall unit that is currently in there. During the short freeze we get every winter it will also supply a space for plants and things that don’t like cold temperatures.

The ceiling will not be finished “underneath” as I am using the space between joists for things like a wood rack, etc., but in the “attic” there will be foam sheets and thin plywood over that. I’m planning on a gable fan and vent for hot air movement once the beam/joists are up. There is also a small roof vent currently in place which, by itself, is inadequate for much of anything.

Today I’m making the final hookup and starting up the garage/shop mini split .. Wish me luck!

Sominus wrote: ↑Mon Apr 22, 2024 7:42 am It is insulated behind the sheathing. I won’t say it is insulated particularly robustly, but it is much better than it was. This weekend I did 80% of the install of a 2 ton mini-split/inverter, which is going to keep temp/humidity manageable with much greater efficiency than the wall unit that is currently in there. During the short freeze we get every winter it will also supply a space for plants and things that don’t like cold temperatures.

The ceiling will not be finished “underneath” as I am using the space between joists for things like a wood rack, etc., but in the “attic” there will be foam sheets and thin plywood over that. I’m planning on a gable fan and vent for hot air movement once the beam/joists are up. There is also a small roof vent currently in place which, by itself, is inadequate for much of anything.

I also use the space above my ceiling for storage but I go through the gable to do it. The access into the attic of my house is a set of homemade louvers on one gable end that are hinged so that it opens outward. Venting the space without a ceiling will let conditioned air out and unconditioned air in.

Out with the old....

...in with the new

I got this saw off a Nextdoor ad that someone passed on to me for the grand sum of $1500 quite some time ago. It has languished in my storage unit since.. Yesterday I was able to sell the old (and terribly inaccurate) X31 and, as a bonus the guy who bought it offered to use the air-tow trailer (google it -- its a god-send!) to move it from the storage unit to my garage. It took less than 90 minutes to get the new one in/old one out and on its way.

Sominus wrote: ↑Sun Jul 07, 2024 5:10 pm ..in with the new

YOWZER!!!

Hot damn! *Drooling*

Wait... How did someone get a copy of my upgraded joist support system?

This is the thing that started it all — the dust collector (which, if you recall, was purchased for the princely sum of $600 in a parking lot meetup at a local Woodcraft). It is now in its forever home, waiting for the final placement of the HEPA filter (seen next to the DC, a Wynn Environmental 13F230NANO) and 7” main trunk line.

Still lots more to do, but the beam installation is roughly scheduled for mid January.

In today’s installment of “This Damned House” we find that Norm and Bob listened to Michael swear a bit while mounting the HEPA output filter to its forever home…

In today’s installment of “This Damned House” we find that Norm and Bob listened to Michael swear a bit while mounting the HEPA output filter to its forever home…
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And now for the wiring.

The house's wiring "trunk" runs from the house,. through the awning, over the ceiling to the main breaker box. In order to put in the beam, the wire bundle either needs to be lifted over the new beam or re-routed. As it is unable to be lifted due to the length of wiring, I am re-routing it.
Here is a pic of what I am starting with. I don't know why all my pictures come in sideways.
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ADMIN NOTE:
Reoriented position and resized photos to full screen...

That looks like a few code violations there. I can see on the right that the one wire clamp is missing it's lock ring. Do the other wires go through clamps or at least bushings? You can't just run wires through the knockout holes. By our code every wire needs to be stapled within 12" of the box. I think code allows more than one wire going through a knockout hole but they still have to be clamped and you need to be careful not to over clamp and damage the connectors. Where it is hard to impossible to over clamp a single wire it isn't with two or more.

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Thu Jan 02, 2025 1:26 pm That looks like a few code violations there. I can see on the right that the one wire clamp is missing it's lock ring. Do the other wires go through clamps or at least bushings? You can't just run wires through the knockout holes. By our code every wire needs to be stapled within 12" of the box. I think code allows more than one wire going through a knockout hole but they still have to be clamped and you need to be careful not to over clamp and damage the connectors. Where it is hard to impossible to over clamp a single wire it isn't with two or more.

I'm in the process of pulling each and every wire out of the box and re-routing it, then will put the box back together in a much more organized fashion. It is slower work than expected. Extricating the wires from the box one-by-one is a royal PITA which, theoretically, gets easier as you go since there are fewer and fewer wires.. But the tangle of wires at the top (since they all come in the one big hole at the top of the box) is profound.

I've gotten 8 out of the way with another 8 or 9 to go.

It's a good plan. If one wire overheated it could wind up shorting out a bunch more. One large hole could be a route for lots of dust and insects too.

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Sun Jan 05, 2025 2:17 pm One large hole could be a route for lots of dust and insects too.

And allow rubbing between wires...

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Sun Jan 05, 2025 2:17 pm It's a good plan. If one wire overheated it could wind up shorting out a bunch more. One large hole could be a route for lots of dust and insects too.

Well,its been 50 years.... Hasn't happened yet... Which also means it could happen tomorrow!

4 more out of the way today -- one was a cheat since it is being removed from service. Another is the power source for shop lights, so will receive a different routing than that of the "house wiring".

Sominus wrote: ↑Sun Jan 05, 2025 4:50 pm Another is the power source for shop lights, so will receive a different routing than that of the "house wiring".

split the power source/feed for this..

I’m getting fairly close to the point in my shop “remodel” that I will be putting in the beam and joists. I came across this little ideal that I think bears investigation and possible use:

Furring strips made from most anything is a helluva lot cheaper...

Stick486 wrote: ↑Wed Feb 12, 2025 10:52 am Furring strips made from most anything is a helluva lot cheaper...

Oh, I wasn't going to go and buy a bunch of wire shelves, but those little buckets can store a hell of a lot of stuff on those little spaces, especially in areas where I won't be stacking wood, etc.