Workers Of Wood

I recently got a “new” compressor. 80 gallon 2 stage, but needed a new motor. I put a baldor 5hp on it and away we went.

This compressor seems to manufacture water by the gallon here in Houston where the temperature and humidity are often equal. I don’t have it plumbed in properly yet, but have been looking around at iterative tweaks in my “spare time” …

While I know how to plumb it in and will be doing so, I came across something which seems pretty cool.

What do y’all think?

http://www.cnccookbook.com/aftercooling ... -moisture/

My main concern with using something like a transmission oil cooler would be if it can handle that much pressure. I dont know what kind of pressure is generated by the tranny. If it can’t handle it you could have flying shrapnel.

Transport trucks have air dryers on their compressor/ brake systems to eliminate moisture to keep the brakes from freezing up in places like where I live. I would be more inclined to look at something like that along with an inter cooler. There are water separators too that can be installed on route to the tank.

For the best info regarding drying your air I would look at professional paint shops and see what they are using. That is the fussiest thing I know of regarding moisture in compressed air.

well said Charles...

It would seem that no matter where the air cools from 200+ the same amount of moisture would be created...gotta go somewhere.

I would rather it be in the tank with an automatic spritzer than in the tranny cooler...

The usual water separators on the output (to tool) line is extremely effective. I use a separator on the output to my paint gun...works great.

Nickp wrote: ↑Sun Oct 10, 2021 3:12 pm The usual water separators on the output (to tool) line is extremely effective. I use a separator on the output to my paint gun...works great.

Something like this?
https://www.pneumaticplus.com/micro-mis ... d-3-4-npt/

Nickp wrote: ↑Sun Oct 10, 2021 3:12 pm usual water separators on the output (to tool) line is extremely effective.

but still you don't want water in the air lines even you augment w/ drip legs...

Sominus wrote: ↑Sun Oct 10, 2021 4:18 pm Something like this?

on the tank outlet and before the distribution lines...

Sominus wrote: ↑Sun Oct 10, 2021 4:18 pm

Nickp wrote: ↑Sun Oct 10, 2021 3:12 pm The usual water separators on the output (to tool) line is extremely effective. I use a separator on the output to my paint gun...works great.

Something like this?
https://www.pneumaticplus.com/micro-mis ... d-3-4-npt/

Yes...it would go directly at the output of the compressor tank before the hose...that will keep your hose dry...

Wait...that one is an oil separator...not sure what it does with water...I'll go look at mine and let you know...

Nickp wrote: ↑Sun Oct 10, 2021 5:25 pm output of the compressor before the hose

Plan ''A''... after the compressor and before the tank...
Plan ''B''... after the tank and before the distribution lines...
Plan ''C''... after the distribution line and before the tool...
I like Plan ''A'' and Plan ''C''... Plan ''C'' for when dry air is absolutely critical...
Plans ''B'' & ''C'' is the most practical for high humidity locations......

and to muddy the waters...
. . , ah hell..... go all three...

NOTES:
the diagrams call for copper or galvanized pipe...
copper is big bucks and not all that easy to remodel...
galvanized... you get any galvanizing salts in your tools and you will become one unhappy camper...
I'm a firm believer that PVC pipe is a serious mistake and dangerous... VOE....
go w/ black pipe...
mind you, there's cutting oil or coolant inside of any pipe you use that needs to dealt w/....

Here's what I've used...have had it for many moons...small one at the tool...big one before the hose

Here..
.

Ditto on using pvc. Although it’s rated for 200 psi in 1/2 and 3/4 inch and 160 above that it’s easily damaged and it may degrade some over time. I have heard of one or two cases where it blew and once again you have a potential shrapnel problem.

...and while pvc may be rated high enough, there is nothing that guarantees the joints will be strong enough for the pressure...

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Mon Oct 11, 2021 3:18 pm I have heard of one or two cases where it blew and once again you have a potential shrapnel problem

buddy has it in his auto shop...
and that happens to him every so often...also the the smaller pipe size chokes his flow and psi...

You can reduce flow issues by putting another storage tank in the line close to where you’re working. That’s works well for intermittent use but isn’t a fix for high volume continuous use. The extra tank also acts as another separator.

I pieced together a system with a 3 hp Baldor motor and a twin cylinder Sanborn compressor and used the tank, control, etc. From a worn out 1 hp single. I wanted extra storage volume so I got an air tank off a wrecked semi and added it on top of the first tank. Those might be a cheap option for adding extra tanks.

I have a bunch of wooden cranes I'm building for our Guild's annual Toys & Gifts Xmas effort.
This one: https://www.pinterest.ca/pin/573434965041494622/
So, I plan on using my touch up spray gun with waterborne urethane and RIT dye (just a few drops of the liquid concentrate plus a bit of water to thin).
I've been concerned about the moisture that seems to make it past my existing filter; went looking and found these...at $7.50/ea seems like a bargain.
https://www.amazon.ca/dp/B08G829QZ3

It would be helpful to have a separator/filter just before the gun...

Nickp wrote: ↑Thu Oct 28, 2021 8:42 pm It would be helpful to have a separator/filter just before the gun...

2nd the motion....

Great project, Dan, be sure to show pictures of the final toys. Kids just love construction toys.
Herb

Will do, Herb. On that in-line filter do-hickey, yes, just before the gun I think. My lines are all 3/8" so at some point I need to step down to1/4" and I'm pretty sure the inlet on the touch-up gun is 1/4" NPT.
The nice thing about those little filters is that they have a built-in drain valve. I haven't seen any mention of being able to replace the actual filter medium though.

You could use the filter/separator to do the reduction...3/8 on one side, 1/4 on the other...

Nickp wrote: ↑Fri Oct 29, 2021 11:05 am You could use the filter/separator to do the reduction...3/8 on one side, 1/4 on the other...

Yes; that's my plan. Sorry if I wasn't clear. Pretty sure that I have at least one 3/8" male to 1/4" MIP quick connect ftg.in stock.
https://www.forneyind.com/products/shop ... 1-4-mnpt-1

Speaking of "plans", here's that crane...it's a free download. Lots of nice stuff there, but not all free downloads.
https://www.woodmagazine.com/project-plans/free

Not so free...
https://www.woodmagazine.com/project-plans

Holy Hanna! I ordered those filters on the 27th (in the evening) and they arrived today...two days earlier than was promised.
They look like they're decent quality.
Instructions on the package are basically non-existent so if you'd like to buy them, print out the details at that link I posted earlier; all the info you need is there (ie airflow direction).

DaninVan wrote: ↑Fri Oct 29, 2021 4:19 pm

Nickp wrote: ↑Fri Oct 29, 2021 11:05 am You could use the filter/separator to do the reduction...3/8 on one side, 1/4 on the other...

Yes; that's my plan. Sorry if I wasn't clear. Pretty sure that I have at least one 3/8" male to 1/4" MIP quick connect ftg.in stock.
https://www.forneyind.com/products/shop ... 1-4-mnpt-1

Oops; the inlet end is a MIP nipple so I'd actually need a 3/8" male M connector to 1/4" FIP coupling. Hopefully I can find something like that up here.
the outlet end could be a simple 1/4" pipe nipple

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Sun Oct 10, 2021 11:59 am My main concern with using something like a transmission oil cooler would be if it can handle that much pressure. I dont know what kind of pressure is generated by the tranny. If it can’t handle it you could have flying shrapnel.

Transport trucks have air dryers on their compressor/ brake systems to eliminate moisture to keep the brakes from freezing up in places like where I live. I would be more inclined to look at something like that along with an inter cooler. There are water separators too that can be installed on route to the tank.

For the best info regarding drying your air I would look at professional paint shops and see what they are using. That is the fussiest thing I know of regarding moisture in compressed air.

They can. I have one on my small 2 hp 20 gallon air compressor, and one on my 5 hp 80 gallon compressor. Actually, the one on the 2 hp compressor is an A/C condenser coil from a foreign car. It is positioned so that the air being drawn by the fan blades in the compressor to blow across the fins on the compressor is being drawn through this A/C coil. It sees pressures of up to about 400 psi when in the car A/C system, so is more than strong enough to use for this. You just need to make certain that the coils in this are larger as a group than the flow out of the air compressor itself. Connect the compressor to the top fitting and the bottom fitting to the tank. There is a check valve in the inlet to the tank, and this must be kept in the line and not discarded. You need to follow the same sizing rule for the larger compressors, and it can be difficult to find a truck transmission oil cooler with large enough internal plumbing
for this, even used, at an affordable price. It definitely is worth doing though.

I had problems with my auto tank drain, so used a large diameter steel pipe and reducer fittings to build a reservoir below my 80 gallon tank to hold the condensate until I manually open a ball valve and let the tank air pressure blow this reservoir clear of the condensate. A 1/2" pipe from the ball valve exits the wall of the compressor shed and points toward the ground. The roar is quite significant, so I need to warn others nearby before opening the ball valve.
It's quite a roar!

Charley

Good to know Charley. Most of the coolers I’ve seen on high pressure hydraulic systems are installed on the return side to the reservoir where there is only a few pounds pressure. I wasn’t sure if a tranny cooler would be on the pressure side.

What's the burst pressure of aluminum pipe the size of what is in the oil cooler. It's just bent pipe, but with fins added.
BTW, You want to use the same size or larger than the size of the outlet on the compressor. this is no place to be adding restrictions. What is the highest pressure that your air compressor will get to before the pressure relief pops. 150 psi? Hydraulics in automatic transmissions run several times that pressure.

Charley