I use an engine washing wand on my compressor for all sorts of cleaning jobs, https://www.harborfreight.com/engine-cl ... 68290.html
What I hadn't solved (no pun intended...sol-vent) was what to use as a cleaner for things that would rust after cleaning.
TSP and bleach for woodwork prior to painting but not appropriate for anything that oxidizes.
Finally got around to doing a search: https://toolsfeed.com/solvent-to-use-in ... d_Cleaners
Yes! Water based with rust inhibitors. Just what the job requires.
Solvent based cleaners are a non starter as the runoff will end up in a small stream below our property; bad idea. At the very least it would kill the frogs.
So, water based with rust inhibitors; any recommendations? From past correspondence with Simple green, their products aren't rust inhibited, unless they've changed their formulations?
I think Trend and CMT blade and bit cleaners have rust inhibitors. David Faulkner used a battery charger or 12 volt battery plus aluminum foil and I think baking sofa (corroboration needed) to remove rust off a jointer bed. You might be able to search rust removal by electrolysis for directions.
Re: It's a Dirty Job
Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2020 3:27 pm
by Cherryville Chuck
Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Mon Oct 12, 2020 3:24 pm
I think Trend and CMT blade and bit cleaners have rust inhibitors. David Falkner used a battery charger or 12 volt battery plus aluminum foil and I think baking soda (corroboration needed) to remove rust off a jointer bed. You might be able to search rust removal by electrolysis for directions.
Re: It's a Dirty Job
Posted: Mon Oct 12, 2020 3:43 pm
by DaninVan
Sorry; I'm not trying to remove rust, I'm trying to prevent it forming after pressure washing.
Basically 1 gal jugs of concentrate washer solution. I'll try some of the machinery depots tomorrow, after Thanksgiving (Canadian).
Maybe LORDCO carries something? They just opened up a store up here.
Or just add this to Simple Green. That's actually what the Simple Green folks suggested a couple of years ago; I just wasn't able to find a smallish container of rust inhibitor. http://www.partwasher.net/s.nl/it.A/id.804/.f
Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Mon Oct 12, 2020 3:24 pm
I think Trend and CMT blade and bit cleaners have rust inhibitors. David Falkner used a battery charger or 12 volt battery plus aluminum foil and I think baking soda (corroboration needed) to remove rust off a jointer bed. You might be able to search rust removal by electrolysis for directions.
Iron (rebar) for the anode. A trickle charger works great.
Re: It's a Dirty Job
Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2020 1:46 am
by Herb Stoops
If you reverse the leads does that put the rust back on?
Herb
Re: It's a Dirty Job
Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2020 5:02 am
by Sominus
Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Tue Oct 13, 2020 1:46 am
If you reverse the leads does that put the rust back on?
Herb
No, it turns your tool into the sacrificial electrode.
Re: It's a Dirty Job (electrolysis)
Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2020 5:17 am
by Sominus
This video explains the process in an upbeat, overly excitable way. Note that they use washing soda, not baking soda (different chemical). I’ve done this with good results.
Re: It's a Dirty Job
Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2020 11:45 am
by DaninVan
Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Tue Oct 13, 2020 1:46 am
If you reverse the leads does that put the rust back on?
Herb
Herb's not far off. the rust particles collect as a scum on the cathode, so pretty close to Herbs 'suggestion'.
In any case i'm guessing not the desired result.
Re: It's a Dirty Job
Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2020 12:45 pm
by Herb Stoops
What I am driving at is ,Say you use a copper,brass,or silver rebar,and reversed the leads, would it plate the plane?
Herb
Re: It's a Dirty Job
Posted: Tue Oct 13, 2020 1:50 pm
by DaninVan
Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Tue Oct 13, 2020 12:45 pm
What I am driving at is ,Say you use a copper,brass,or silver rebar,and reversed the leads, would it plate the plane?
Herb