Workers Of Wood

For anyone who would like to try their hand at compound cutting:

These are my first attempt at making ornaments. They're simple patterns to get your blades wet on the idea. I've cut all three and they came out good. The pdf is a two-part. Pg one is if someone wants to have entry holes at the top both ways, and the second one (the one I used) is for one-sided. With the issue I have right now with my drill press, I can't get even holes, so I made them with only one.

I'll post a picture of all three when I get back in from the shop tonight if I can.

What is going on with the drill press?
Herb

I bought it a couple years ago at a yard sale, and the chuck was bad. We got to use it twice, when the whole chuck fell off. Ken "crammed" it in, enough to be able to use it, but the drill bit now can't go through any real amount of wood straight, and it's like the chuck is stripping-when we try to tighten/loosen it, we can barely get it to work to put in or remove a drill bit.

Check for any burrs on the tapered section. Those can affect accuracy. Try cleaning the socket out too. Put a rag on a pointy stick with solvent on it and try wiping it clean a few times. If there was any debris in there when Ken put it back together that could cause what you describe. Lastly, it might help to try polish the cone with some 600 grit sandpaper.

There are usually 2 tapers on drill press chucks. The long Morse taper that goes into the Quill shaft on the Drill press and the Jacobs taper that goes into the back of the chuck. Usually the short Jacobs taper is never a problem. if there is any debris on or in the taper going up into the drill press it will cause the taper to not seat right. and also cause the taper to drop out. Sometimes you can feel up inside and if there are any bumps,they need to be removed,as they cause the taper to seat at a slight angle and cause the drill bit to be out of line. If all is OK there then open up the chuck all the way and inspect the inside of the jaws to see if there is some debris on one of them, that can also cause the drill bit to run off center.
https://toolsmach.com/en/content/14-drill-chucks

https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffab&q=diagra ... &ia=images

HErb

@Herb Stoops @Cherryville Chuck This is the drill press. I told Ken you had a couple links for him, and suggestions, but this is the machine we're working with.

How accurate was it before the chuck fell out? If it was good then the issue is entirely in the spindle or chuck and nothing to do with the rest of the machine. I strongly suspect that most of these Taiwan machines are put together from jobbed out parts. For example the main housing casting is probably used for a few machines just like the casting for my thickness planer is. At least a half dozen different brands use the same casting and gearbox. Between 25 and 30 different models of routers use a collet made by Accurate Electric.

If accuracy was starting to go bad before the chuck fell out then that might be the spindle bearing(s). I've never had one of those apart so I don't know if the bearing(s) have to be replaced or the backlash (slack) can be adjusted out. The first step is to check the tapers and cones for dirt or defects. If they are clean and defect free then they should seize fit when put together and can be very difficult to get apart after.

We only got to use it a couple times before the chuck fell out of it completely. When Ken tried to put it back in, it wouldn't go. He had to force it back in place. I can tell you, though the one time (maybe 2) as far as I could tell, the holes were straight. The other issue is the key to tighten and loosen the chuck... it's hard to loosen and tightenthe chuck-like it's sticking.

I wonder if one of the jaws in the chuck went bonkers...?

My SIL gave me a pair of drills that his workplace were tossing out because the chucks had broken. I can't remember exactly what the problems were but both had broken parts inside so it does happen. I bought a couple of chucks off ebay fairly cheap (under $15 each) and replaced the broken ones. I found out that you can easily spend $1000 on a high quality German made one if you want to. There are a variety of mounting types but all seem to be fairly common from ones that screw onto an arbor that are either 3/8" 24 thread or 1/2" 20 thread and then the Morse and Jacobs tapers that fit into sockets.

But that shouldn't cause the chuck to fall out of the press unless it was running so out of balance that the vibration shook it loose.Those parts, the cone and the tapered adapter, often come with a coating of something on them that keeps them from corroding until such time that they get installed and those coatings need to be cleaned off before assembly so that is another possibility too.