Making Rattles
Posted: Thu Sep 29, 2022 3:44 pm
Many seem to have questions on how the rattles are made. I will describe how I do it as best I can. I'm sure there are other ways to accomplish this task and would love to see how you do it.
I start out with a 2"x2"x6" turning bland. I make the the entire length round. Then I make a dovetail tenon on each end so as to mount them in the dovetail jaws on the chuck. I also make a parting cut two inches from the end leaving a 2" and a 4" piece.
I mount the 2" piece to hollow out the inside cavity. I use 1-5/16" as the inside diameter and allow for a 3/16 recess so I am going to go a total of 1" deep from the end. I have a steel washer that I use as a guide to size the cavity.
I size the recess to 1-7/16" and go 3/16" deep and then hollow the inside of the 1-5/16" ball to 13/16" deep from that ledge. 13/16" is half diameter. The recess ledge is the center of the ball both inside and outside.
Now it can be rough turned on the outside. Use the parting tool to make a cut at 1-1/8" which is the end and round it over as required.
I then part it off and mount the handle end in the chuck. A 3/16" long tenon needs cut on the end to fit in the top piece. Cutting the outside makes it much easier to sneak up on a good fit. The very end of this piece is the center of the ball so hollow it out to 13/16" deep for the other half of the inside cavity.
Add the media being used for the noise maker, BBs in this case, and glue it together. There is going to be some squeeze out of the glue so don't move it around until the glue dries to prevent getting glue on the balls and gluing them to the insides. Remember to align the grain too.
Mount it back on the lathe when the glue dries.
Keeping in mind the center of the ball is 3/16 from the glue line turn the rattle to the final shape and sand and add burn lines as necessary. The glue line should be the first burn line from the left. I add two more to the right because I find three burn lines most pleasing to the eye the center burn line is real close to the actual center. I like to sand to 400 grit.
I like to leave the end piece for a handle to use while applying finish. In between coats remounting can be done if desired for removing dust nibs and smoothing. Once the finishing is done, part off the end piece, and rub some finish in the fresh cut. Now it is time to take some pictures and share them here.
I start out with a 2"x2"x6" turning bland. I make the the entire length round. Then I make a dovetail tenon on each end so as to mount them in the dovetail jaws on the chuck. I also make a parting cut two inches from the end leaving a 2" and a 4" piece.
I mount the 2" piece to hollow out the inside cavity. I use 1-5/16" as the inside diameter and allow for a 3/16 recess so I am going to go a total of 1" deep from the end. I have a steel washer that I use as a guide to size the cavity.
I size the recess to 1-7/16" and go 3/16" deep and then hollow the inside of the 1-5/16" ball to 13/16" deep from that ledge. 13/16" is half diameter. The recess ledge is the center of the ball both inside and outside.
Now it can be rough turned on the outside. Use the parting tool to make a cut at 1-1/8" which is the end and round it over as required.
I then part it off and mount the handle end in the chuck. A 3/16" long tenon needs cut on the end to fit in the top piece. Cutting the outside makes it much easier to sneak up on a good fit. The very end of this piece is the center of the ball so hollow it out to 13/16" deep for the other half of the inside cavity.
Add the media being used for the noise maker, BBs in this case, and glue it together. There is going to be some squeeze out of the glue so don't move it around until the glue dries to prevent getting glue on the balls and gluing them to the insides. Remember to align the grain too.
Mount it back on the lathe when the glue dries.
Keeping in mind the center of the ball is 3/16 from the glue line turn the rattle to the final shape and sand and add burn lines as necessary. The glue line should be the first burn line from the left. I add two more to the right because I find three burn lines most pleasing to the eye the center burn line is real close to the actual center. I like to sand to 400 grit.
I like to leave the end piece for a handle to use while applying finish. In between coats remounting can be done if desired for removing dust nibs and smoothing. Once the finishing is done, part off the end piece, and rub some finish in the fresh cut. Now it is time to take some pictures and share them here.