Workers Of Wood

I bought some Easy Wood mini carbide tool cutters when they were on sale. It was so long ago that I don't remember when. I decided it was time to make the tools to use them on. I have some 3/8" chromed and hardened steel rods that came in a box acquired at an auction. I chucked a grind stone in the metal lathe mounted the rods in the milling attachment and ground a flat spot for the cutters. The small cutters take a 4-40 screw supplied with the cutters. I drilled the hole but broke the tap when threading. Decided to drill a larger hole and use a longer bolt with a nut. Didn't care for that arrangement as the nut got in the way at times during use. Was going to cut the end off and start over but found a 6-32 screw head fit well enough for use so I got the 6-32 tap and was successful at threading the holes. Handles are some of what I believe is Cherry rescued from the neighbors firewood pile. Then of course I took the time to test them. They will be a good addition to the arsenal.

Nice work. I did the same thing to make an inside turning tool out of one side of a defunct set fireplace tongs. I tried it once and it works well. I still have to decide how much to shorten it and add a handle.

I finally got around to taking a picture of my attempt. Still haven’t decided on how long to leave it.

Looks good. Going to do some hollowing? I haven't got into that at all.

HandyDan wrote: ↑Sun Feb 19, 2023 10:37 pm Looks good. Going to do some hollowing? I haven't got into that at all.

It's on the to do list. Ive always been impressed by others examples of the style. Plus I saved the last batch of obsolete fireplace tools because of the heavy rods they were made from and this one half of the tongs seemed perfect for making that tool from. I don't get a lot of time on the lathe which makes using the more refined turning tools a challenge. The carbide tools are essentially scrapers which better suit my meager skills.

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Mon Feb 20, 2023 12:04 pm The carbide tools are essentially scrapers which better suit my meager skills.

Most hollowing tools have gone to using carbide inserts since hollowing is scraping. I've thought about a tool that would restrict the depth of the cut to keep the cutting edge from digging in too deep causing the proverbial catch. I envision a tool with enough cutting edge sticking out to cut and the tool steel could ride the plane ahead of the cut. Don't know if it would work or not. Maybe it's a million dollar idea, maybe not.

HandyDan wrote: ↑Mon Feb 20, 2023 4:01 pm

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Mon Feb 20, 2023 12:04 pm The carbide tools are essentially scrapers which better suit my meager skills.

Most hollowing tools have gone to using carbide inserts since hollowing is scraping. I've thought about a tool that would restrict the depth of the cut to keep the cutting edge from digging in too deep causing the proverbial catch. I envision a tool with enough cutting edge sticking out to cut and the tool steel could ride the plane ahead of the cut. Don't know if it would work or not. Maybe it's a million dollar idea, maybe not.

That would be similr to depth limiting features on saw blades or router bits or like the rakers on chain saw chains. I don't see why it wouldn't work, the only issue would be at the bottom of the cut unless it will work like a pattern bit. It might take two or more designs. Maybe one for sides and one with a little cutter exposed at a corner where the body of the tool wraps around upper side and end.

Dan, would the steel riding the workpiece ahead of the cut not force you to reproduce all imperfections in the workpiece, eg if the piece is not truly round? Having a cutting edge which references the support bar, is what makes it possible to true up and round.

Biagio wrote: ↑Tue Feb 21, 2023 2:15 pm Dan, would the steel riding the workpiece ahead of the cut not force you to reproduce all imperfections in the workpiece, eg if the piece is not truly round? Having a cutting edge which references the support bar, is what makes it possible to true up and round.

The insert would still be sticking out enough to repair any imperfections. To me hollowing is all about repairing catches. Maybe its me but I can't hollow without cursing. I suppose if I did it more but don't see that happening.

HandyDan wrote: ↑Tue Feb 21, 2023 2:56 pm

Biagio wrote: ↑Tue Feb 21, 2023 2:15 pm Dan, would the steel riding the workpiece ahead of the cut not force you to reproduce all imperfections in the workpiece, eg if the piece is not truly round? Having a cutting edge which references the support bar, is what makes it possible to true up and round.

The insert would still be sticking out enough to repair any imperfections. To me hollowing is all about repairing catches. Maybe its me but I can't hollow without cursing. I suppose if I did it more but don't see that happening.

I think you and I are envisioning something along the same lines. With the cutter only exposed a few thou maybe. And maybe flush to the end of the tool so you can't go deeper.

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Thu Feb 23, 2023 1:10 pm I think you and I are envisioning something along the same lines. With the cutter only exposed a few thou maybe. And maybe flush to the end of the tool so you can't go deeper.

I believe we are. How much the cutter sticks would be the biggest question. Perfect would be if it was adjustable. I have a Sorby tool with an adjustable bit and made a new hold down for the bit that marches the tool end diameter on my metal lathe and I can hollow with this bit sticking out an eighth of an inch and more. A larger tool with better controlling abilities may do more.

Sorby- nice tools, not cheap.
I can’t think of an easy way to make it adjustable. My vision is installing the cutter on flat bar with it sticking out the side 3 to 6 thou and flush with the end of the bar so you don’t accidentally go deeper.

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Thu Feb 23, 2023 3:46 pm Sorby- nice tools, not cheap.
I can’t think of an easy way to make it adjustable. My vision is installing the cutter on flat bar with it sticking out the side 3 to 6 thou and flush with the end of the bar so you don’t accidentally go deeper.

I got lucky and got a lot of Sorby tools in an auction some years ago. I have bought a few new and they are pricey.

Trial and error is not the best way to go about things but it's all we got. I like your plan, give it a shot and let me know how it works out.