Workers Of Wood

Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Mon May 08, 2023 5:13 pm This morning while cutting 2inch hard wood stock, it quit in mid cut.
Just stopped.

smitty10101 wrote: ↑Mon May 08, 2023 8:24 pm Herb doesn't it have composite tables & not metal ones (either cast or stamped steel?)

smitty10101 wrote: ↑Mon May 08, 2023 8:24 pm With the stand I would question stability---on ALL those types of saws.

Stick486 wrote: ↑Mon May 08, 2023 9:05 pm that's a pretty broad statement when you evidently lack VOE.

smitty10101 wrote: ↑Mon May 08, 2023 6:48 pm Bushwacker

I have a similar saw (possibly series #1)

My serial # is on the back plate by the exhaust chute for the dust collection
Facing the back of the saw to the right and down slightly.
On a stick on decal.

hope this helps

smitty

Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Tue May 09, 2023 7:54 am

smitty10101 wrote: ↑Mon May 08, 2023 6:48 pm Bushwacker

I found it !
You got me in the right area.
Mine is on the lower cross bar of the stand facing the rear of the saw.

Bushwhacker

David wouldn't just the model # and the sales receipt be good enough? I bought a Sears 1HP direct drive back in the 80s. It had a thermal reset on the motor which would occasionally kick out. I sold it about 5 years ago and as far as I know it's still going. Use a thin blade with as few teeth as you can get when ripping. The Freud 1024 blade works pretty well on under powered saws.

smitty10101 wrote: ↑Tue May 09, 2023 2:01 pm @Bushwacker

What's the amperage for your saw

13 amps or 15 amps??

For a while there only 13 amps were available.

smitty10101 wrote: ↑Wed May 10, 2023 6:23 am @Bushwacker

If you have 220v in the shop and convenient to the table saw---( I envy you)

MAYBE

you can convert the saw to 220v.

My saw is 15 amp also and in the manual (rtfm??) it goes through the process of converting the motor & cord to 220v

IIRC there is a switch on the motor housing and you will need to split/rearrange the wires at the switch.
the manual made it sound easy.

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Tue May 09, 2023 9:36 pm On my 12" 80t combination blade on the craftsman saw , It does a superb job both Ripping and crosscutting. On the Bosch,I have a 60t 10"combo and it does an acceptable job. On the old Hi Speed blades I always heard that more teeth for cross cut and fewer teeth for rip. and in between for a combination. On the 12" RA saw I used the 80 t combination and I is smooth as glass. All are Diablows
HErb

Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Tue May 09, 2023 8:58 pm Tomorrow I will switch out the 10 inch blade for an 80 tooth blade, the one I am currently using is a 40 tooth

Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Tue May 09, 2023 8:58 pm

smitty10101 wrote: ↑Tue May 09, 2023 2:01 pm @Bushwacker

What's the amperage for your saw

13 amps or 15 amps??

For a while there only 13 amps were available.

The book says it is a 15 amp induction motor.
It is on a 15 amp breaker..
I have a 220 line coming into my shop, and I split it down each leg of the breakers box. giving me two legs at 110.
The saw is alone on one 15 amp breaker.
Once I got it running again I continued my cuts but push the wood through very slowly, This time I had no problems..
If I was to replace the motor with a 17 amp, I believe they have one for it. Would i have to up the size of the breaker to maybe a 20 amp, just for the saw?
I have everything in my shop separated on the breakers. I have a wall plug every 4 feet all through the shop.
I have one side of the shop on one 15 amp breaker, and the other side on another. The over head lights are on a separate breaker.
My air compressor is separate.
Since I am the only one in the shop working, I can only run one tool at a time.
Sandras gym is on a separate breaker. She plays her Tv or music while she works out, none of her Equipment is powered.
The whole shop and gym are on a separate 30 amp breaker at the house.
I normally have no problems with the saw except as now, I am cutting 2 inch hard woods , glued into 2 inch by 2 inch , strips, and glued into 16 by 26 inch slabs for cutting boards. I am making a Chaotic board which requires several cuts both straight across and diagonally.
Tomorrow I will switch out the 10 inch blade for an 80 tooth blade, the one I am currently using is a 40 tooth , which may be why it is having to work to cut through the slab.

Any ideas anyone?
And no, I am not going to go out and buy a Bosch.
I was going to but it was a toss up between that and indoor plumbing.

Bushwhacker

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Wed May 10, 2023 10:38 am

Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Tue May 09, 2023 8:58 pm

smitty10101 wrote: ↑Tue May 09, 2023 2:01 pm @Bushwacker

What's the amperage for your saw

13 amps or 15 amps??

For a while there only 13 amps were available.

The book says it is a 15 amp induction motor.
It is on a 15 amp breaker..
I have a 220 line coming into my shop, and I split it down each leg of the breakers box. giving me two legs at 110.
The saw is alone on one 15 amp breaker.
Once I got it running again I continued my cuts but push the wood through very slowly, This time I had no problems..
If I was to replace the motor with a 17 amp, I believe they have one for it. Would i have to up the size of the breaker to maybe a 20 amp, just for the saw?
I have everything in my shop separated on the breakers. I have a wall plug every 4 feet all through the shop.
I have one side of the shop on one 15 amp breaker, and the other side on another. The over head lights are on a separate breaker.
My air compressor is separate.
Since I am the only one in the shop working, I can only run one tool at a time.
Sandras gym is on a separate breaker. She plays her Tv or music while she works out, none of her Equipment is powered.
The whole shop and gym are on a separate 30 amp breaker at the house.
I normally have no problems with the saw except as now, I am cutting 2 inch hard woods , glued into 2 inch by 2 inch , strips, and glued into 16 by 26 inch slabs for cutting boards. I am making a Chaotic board which requires several cuts both straight across and diagonally.
Tomorrow I will switch out the 10 inch blade for an 80 tooth blade, the one I am currently using is a 40 tooth , which may be why it is having to work to cut through the slab.

Any ideas anyone?
And no, I am not going to go out and buy a Bosch.
I was going to but it was a toss up between that and indoor plumbing.

Bushwhacker

The more teeth on the blade, the more power you need to drive it. Ideally a thin kerf blade with 18 teeth would cut the easiest but I only usually see those in full kerf. Twenty three or twenty four is probably what you have to go with like the 10 by 24 Diablo by Freud. Also, most of the high tooth count blades are only meant to cut 1" or less material.In many of them the saw plate thickens up 1" in to add stability since they are meant for fine cuts. If you are using a 40 tooth on a saw like that it's already too many teeth. In order to get better cuts you could add saw stabilizers onto the arbor if there is room. You could also add a zero clearance insert in your saw.

smitty10101 wrote: ↑Wed May 10, 2023 6:43 am

Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Tue May 09, 2023 8:58 pm Tomorrow I will switch out the 10 inch blade for an 80 tooth blade, the one I am currently using is a 40 tooth

I "THINK" an 80-tooth blade will put more strain on the saw than a 40-tooth blade

80 teeth are usually on a cross-cut blade and 40 & below on a rip blade.


so are you cross-cutting the stock or ripping it down? A chaotic cutting board is usually done on a band saw---at least we did in the community workshop.

As an aside----what/why the hell are you making 2" thick cutting boards? Are you afraid the countertop will blow away in the Texas wind??

Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Wed May 10, 2023 4:50 pm I am to understand that an 20 or 24 tooth count would cut better and easier?
is that right?

Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Wed May 10, 2023 4:59 pm

Well butter my butt and call me a biscuit, I switch the 80 tooth for a 24tooth and ran a 4 x 4 block of oak though the saw. And even with the blade being buried in the wood, It cut like butter.


Bushwhacker

Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Tue May 09, 2023 8:58 pm I have a 220 line coming into my shop, and I split it down each leg of the breakers box. giving me two legs at 110

smitty10101 wrote: ↑Thu May 11, 2023 7:38 am

Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Tue May 09, 2023 8:58 pm I have a 220 line coming into my shop, and I split it down each leg of the breakers box. giving me two legs at 110

Hey Bushwacker----If I'm reading between the lines correctly (a BIG if)

#1 You, physically, put the electricity into the shop--not a professional electrician
#2 You put a sub-panel in with possibly only two breakers in the sub-panel
#3 The workshop & gym are a separate building from the main house
#4 The breakers in the house are on the same leg and not one above the other.
#5 Why separate breakers in the house? Why not one double?

So some questions

what size wire did you run 10 AWG, 12 AWG, or something else?
how did you run it? underground? overhead?
If underground is it bare cable or in conduit?
If underground is it a bitch to redo? (Texas sand or Texas clay?)
Distance from the main house & outbuilding?

The reason being, it MIGHT be possible to upgrade the service & eliminate several problems or switch the location of the breakers in the main house.

Just giving this problem some thought.

Any electricians on this forum??

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Thu May 11, 2023 10:42 am I've been doing all my own wiring for 50 years now. I went back down to Alabama a few years ago and helped my brother wire his place. There were a few minor differences from here to there but not anything significant. He was allowed to install his own service David so regional rules may differ slightly as well. Since your shop is only 60' from the main service you didn't need to go larger in wire size. 75' And farther you should. For a 30 amp load #10 was adequate. If you go to a 17 amp motor then you should run a #12 wire, but the saw would run on what you have. It would only draw 17 amps if it were under heavy load. The wire you currently have would handle that but probably make it slightly more prone to trip the breaker or reset because of a slight increase in resistance over having a larger wire. Code says switch the wire though.

What I would suggest instead is switching to a 220 motor which would halve the load between the wires. You'd only have 7.5 amps on either wire then.You wouldn't need to change the wire for that. On a motor load you wouldn't need a neutral wire. You need that extra wire on dryers and stoves because the displays, lights, and timers operate on 110. I assume with a small saw like that that you move it around. If you go to a 220 motor then you do need to change the wall plug to a 15 amp 220 configuration. You would also need to cut the plug on your saw off and replace it with a 220 one and if you were using an extension cord to it you'd need to make one with the correct ends on it too. That's what I did for my stationary planer that I put castors on.

Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Thu May 11, 2023 6:20 pm

So, Chuck, are you busy this week end??

DaninVan wrote: ↑Sat May 13, 2023 6:32 pm One thing nobody's mentioned is the service to the house. I'm assuming it's an aerial service conductor rather than underground? If it hasn't been redone in 60+years there's an excellent chance the connectors at either end have suffered some corrosion. At the very least the tape wrap over the compression fittings is probably long gone. Can you get your utility company to check it out? Tell them you've been having flickering lights or something; that'll get their attention...

smitty10101 wrote: ↑Sat May 13, 2023 3:07 pm @Bushwacker

Give us an idea of your hookup both in the main panel in the house & the sub in the outbuilding.

In the sub-panel in the outbuilding---is one breaker for your shop? That one breaker controls both the saw & the lights? The gym is on the other breaker with mainly just lights? She has no equipment running like a treadmill or such?

IF that's the case, can you not just put your lights on her breaker? Having both the saw & lights together is (in my opinion) dangerous.

In the main panel how are the breakers for the outbuilding arranged? Are they served by the same leg.

what is the type of wiring? copper or aluminum? If it's aluminum have you checked ALL the screws both in the main & subpanel and the outlet boxes to make sure that they are ALL tight & secure?

Also how much amperage is being supplied by the power company? 100amps or 200 amps?

The reason I'm asking is b/c something just ain't right.
Somehow you are drawing a whole lot of juice when you run the saw. How much more is on in the house?

I'm sure to have more questions later.

Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Sun May 14, 2023 9:18 am

DaninVan wrote: ↑Sat May 13, 2023 6:32 pm One thing nobody's mentioned is the service to the house. I'm assuming it's an aerial service conductor rather than underground? If it hasn't been redone in 60+years there's an excellent chance the connectors at either end have suffered some corrosion. At the very least the tape wrap over the compression fittings is probably long gone. Can you get your utility company to check it out? Tell them you've been having flickering lights or something; that'll get their attention...

I rewired the whole house in 1997 when I bought it, Then added the wire to the shop in the mid 20s around 2015 or so.
Thanks for the thought dan.

Bushwhacker