Workers Of Wood

I decided I needed an aid for resawing without having to buy or make a tall fence (did not want to reduce the throat depth) so I came up with this. It also doubles to keep my fingies away from the sharpies.

Then I moved it to the table saw and I use it for cutting thin strips. Place it in the runner, adjust for the size of the strip, but the board against it, run the fence against the wood, cut and repeat...

It's not readily apparent in the picture but, yes, there is a slot that the knob and bolt sit in to adjust depth.

I too have been playing around with similar aids. i wanted a simple design for a lateral featherboard(s). Of the two designs I came up with this is the one I've been using the most. Basic to any of these is a miter slot slider. I chose to make my own rather than buying commercial ones; mine work just fine.
i dadoed out slots perpendicular to the length of the slider to allow for the Tee bolt head to be restrained on the underside. Also I didn't want to lose any thickness because of the bolts hanging down underneath.
A longitudinal slot on the featherboard would be great but the drilled holes work just fine.

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[/img]OK; here's the other design I've been tinkering with.
1)...the intent was to move the featherboards way back to allow for wider stock to the left of the blade. This one allows 3 1/2" between the mounting board and the blade.
2)...the 3/4" mounting board raises the featherboards up that amount, so not going to work for stock thinner than that.
3)... the featherboards themselves are about an inch thick, so really good support for thin tall stock running perpendicular, say dadoing the edge of a 1x4.
4)...I'm thinking of making a longer mounting board to allow for more options when swinging the featherboards around.

Nice...methinks you're right...more options.

I noticed you marked the featherboards infeed/outfeed...are they different strengths...?

Nope and I've got them in reverse order. Apparently they're interchangeable; who knew?

Picky picky...

OK...I'll go with that.

I have taken a different route to the commonly-used high, full fence with feather board.

The usual reason for a feather board is to hold the workpiece against the fence. The reason it is needed is to keep the sawline straight and not let it wander.

Sawing undemanding timber is not where the problem tends to come out, but as soon as you encounter something with inner tensions, what happens is that the wood moves, the kerf opens up, and the section against the fence pushed the board away from the fence. This moves the kerf away from the line chosen.

One solution is, as above, to force the board against the fence. In the hard Australian timbers I use, this has mediocre success. So, instead, I built a fence that allows the kerf to open without affecting the straightness of the line.



What you see here is a shortened fence. The rear is long, but after the blade it stops. That is the point where the kerf would open and push the sides of the board away from the fence. Now the kerf can open and not touch the fence.

Regards from Perth

Derek

I use the same technique with my table saw...short fence...

I like it! Thanks for the suggestion, Derek.

Clever

Really like it if you make another one and send it to me I will test it out