Workers Of Wood

For one reason and another, I've procrastinated installing my MuscleChuck, finally got around to it this week.

Pretty straight-forward, especially if you watch the little video on their web site.
I started of marking a flat on the chuck relative to the balance hole, and rotating CW to improve the runout, turns out it would have been quicker going CCW from the original position because that's where I wound up. Runout of the shank was around .0015", and there is absolutely zero vibration so happy with it so far. Planning to give it a workout in the next couple of days making tool holders for the pull-out panel on the end of my bench.

I was a little surprised to find out that the plate on my BenchDog lift was not cast iron as I'd though but some kind of composite, found that out when the magnetic base on the dial indicator wouldn't stick.

That sure does seem like a lot of hardware...best of luck with it...

Tom, did you buy the MC for the extra bit height...? Or ease of bit change...?

When I installed mine I tightened it down too much and increased the runout in doing so. I had about .005" runout if I remember right at the worst point. I went back and watched the installation video again and decided maybe I should loosen the nut a bit and when I did I was able to find a point where it ran smoothly. I don't remember what my dial gauge read but it runs smoothly so that doesn't matter. Having a dial gauge does help in my opinion but since I had one to use I can't say if it is really a necessity or not.

I bought mine for two reasons. Primarily it was because I was having a problem with bits getting stuck in the regular chuck which is the Bosch style collet and also to make bit changes easier. It solved both problems. After you've used one for a while you really won't want to back to the standard collet. While the whole arrangement will extend farther you don't get more height out of a bit. You can rout a deeper recess if you are using a bit wider than the MC is.

I have 2, one on the 3.5hp PC and the other on the Bosch1617, not having a dial indicator, I don't know if it has any run out on either. All I know is that on a table you loose the thickness of the table plate, on height adjustment when a router is mounted under the table. This makes it harder to change bits too, even with an offset wrench. The muscle chuck was a great invention.
HErb

I have two (one on table, one on portable) and love them to death...

Nickp wrote: ↑Thu Dec 17, 2020 11:44 am That sure does seem like a lot of hardware...best of luck with it...

Tom, did you buy the MC for the extra bit height...? Or ease of bit change...?

Nick,

I don't normally change bits back and forth - other than routing the dovetail slots for the Matchfit clamps - main reason was for ease of bit change. Although I have to raise the chuck enough to access the tightening screw, it will save the aggravation of using an offset wrench and trying to keep the upper wrench from slipping. I'm pleased with it so far, enough that I'm thinking about a second one to put on my P-C plunge router - don't have a problem changing bits on the regular P-C as it's easy enough to pop the motor out of the base with the mod I made to the clamping mechanism, but changing the bit on the plunge model is a real PITA

I've had one in my router table for years and would not be without it. I also bought one for my DW which I use for routing bowls but have never installed it. The issue there is one of the diameters of the Chuck vs the bit/bearing. As a result I would be happy to sell/give the unit to another member who can use it. Send me a PM.

Cheers
Jon

Jon, I don't understand the problem with the bit/bearing/musclechuck? Does it have to do with the size of hole in the base plate?
Herb

Is it because the Musclechuck is a larger diameter than the bit you are using? Which model DW is it for?

@Herb Stoops, @Cherryville Chuck

Gentlemen

The problem is that the OD of the Muscle Chuck is larger than the bowl bit I use. As a result the depth of cut is limited even when using a bit extender. Chuck you noted that point in your post above re routing a deeper recess is possible when using a bit wider than the MuscleChuck.

The extra MC I have was purchased for a DW 621.

Here is a list of the other DWs that it fits: https://elairecorp.com/dewaltroutercollets.html Here is an ad from ebay saying which Bosch and Hitachi part numbers that it matches up to: https://www.ebay.com/itm/1-2-Router-Col ... 1117782800

I gave my son a 1617 kit a while back and I have Hitachi M12V2 and M12VC models that I can attest that the collets interchange from one to another. The M12 is different.

What is the max. depth you can cut,Jon? All I can find in Bowl bits is 2 1/14" oa lengthbits. There are straight bits up to 3 1/2" oa length, but you want to do a radiused botttom in a bowl
Herb

I wonder if a guy could route out the bowl as deep as his bit would go, the make a 3/4' thick ring out or the same board and cut the center out smaller than the inside of the bowl and glue it on top of the bowl. Then use a straight bit w/bearing to match the inside and outside of the bowl. Heck a person could just keep stacking rings and routing them to match and make the bowl as high as he wanted.
Just saying,
Herb

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Sat Dec 19, 2020 6:33 pm I wonder if a guy could route out the bowl as deep as his bit would go, the make a 3/4' thick ring out or the same board and cut the center out smaller than the inside of the bowl and glue it on top of the bowl. Then use a straight bit w/bearing to match the inside and outside of the bowl. Heck a person could just keep stacking rings and routing them to match and make the bowl as high as he wanted.
Just saying,
Herb

Amana makes a trim bit that also cuts a small V groove for jobs like that. If you line up the spur that cuts the V groove with the glue joint it makes a groove that tends to hide the joint, or at least lessen the visual impact of it. https://www.amanatool.com/products/rout ... -bits.html

Gentlemen:

Appreciate the additional information and possible approach for adding depth to the bowl.

According to the MuscleChuck web site the collet I have is a Type 3 and the only routers listed is a series of DWs, including the 621.

I use either a standard bowl bit from Amanna or one from CMT with an extension as shown in the photo below. With the extension the maximum depth I have done so far is 3".

Jon, that is a cool set up, glad you found a bearing bit larger than the adapter. How much deeper do you want to go?
Herb

3" is a comfortable depth and works for most applications. The maximum would be 4" Between 3 and 4" works well for fruit bowls.