Workers Of Wood

I'm looking for a new 10" thin kerf 24 tooth rip blade.
-the cost of mailing back and forth to Quality Saw and Knife + the actual cost of sharpening makes simply replacing blades almost more economical...mind you i still have to pay for mailing, coming this way, for a new blade,
-my local lumberyard carries Freud, but they're out of stock for the one i want.
SO; I'm looking at either a PopularTools RF1024126 or a Royce/Ayr 12100240 either of which I can get from Quality Saw.
I know there are other options but North of 49 these are two readily available from non-big box or hardware stores.
Trust me, I've been shopping around and you'd think TK rip blades were toilet paper from the lack of stock on shelves...
Quality Saw deals heavily with cabinet and millwork shops so they have to recognize that quality and longevity are paramount concerns.
Anyone tried either of those blades?

I have not tried either of those blades, but have a comment about having mine sharpened.
A long time back I bought one of those home blade sharpeners. The one that you have to advance the blade for each tooth. It takes a while to get it set up for what ever blade you are sharpening and it only did the face of the tooth.
It is a very slow process and the blade does not seem to stay sharp very long.
I searched on line for blade sharpening services but most were a long way away and like you said, the cost of shipping was high.
I visited a cabinet shop right down the road from me and they accepted blades for sharpening. They have a service that comes by periodically and picks the dull blades up and delivers the previous blades.
I have to have my blades mounted on a piece of plywood and the board marked with my information.
They charge nothing for this service since the sharpeners are picking up and delivering.
In addition, the sharpening service etches my blades with my name so I get my own blades back.
My sharpened blades come back with an invoice attached and I contact them to make my payments.
Of course, I don't know your situation up there or how close you may be to a cabinet shop, but you may want to check that option,

Bushwhacker

DaninVan wrote: ↑Wed Dec 30, 2020 5:23 pm SO; I'm looking at either a PopularTools RF1024126 or a Royce/Ayr 12100240 either of which I can get from Quality Saw.

It doesn't seem that either of these are thin kerf...the Popular is 1/8" and the Royce is bigger (3.86mm)...

It's true; both are thicker than what I'd normally think of as 'thin kerf', but they are thinner than their standard blades.
It's a battle between requiring less power to operate well, and maintaining a really rigid blade for deep glue line cuts.
On top of that, of the two Royce blades, one has a flat top tooth design and the other is a triple chip (TCG) pattern.
I often use whatever is on the saw to make dadoes (for splines) rather than stop and switch blades, especially if the fence is already set in the correct location. So, that sort of tips in favour of the flat top tooth?

I have to wait for new stock to arrive if i go for the Popular Tool but I can get the Royce immediately.
These brands are not aimed at the consumer market; they're suppliers to industry and only available from very specific distributors. Royce is Canadian made so probably not available in the US?

I've never heard of Royce Dan. KMS has regular sales on Freud blades and they sell the D1024 (Diablo non industrial) for $29.95 during the mid-month 3 day special price drop. I've always found these blades to be pretty good, last decently long, and at that price it's hardly worth sharpening. I have used a diamond cutting/grinding wheel on a dremel to sharpen a few by eye and that made a noticeable improvement and was fine for general chopping and hacking of wood but not good enough for cabinet work. I know lots of guys hate changing blades, I've seen Herb admit to that too which is why he said he uses a combo blade, but it's one of those things you just need to accept that needs to be done. If it's because you keep dropping the nut then hold a finger on the end of the shaft when you unscrew or screw back on, that's what made it better for me. I never drop the nut since I started doing that.

BTW, a Freud rep told me the only difference between the Diablo and industrial quality blades is the amount of carbide in each tooth. He said the grind and carbide quality are identical in similar blades.

I use mostly Freud and Diablo blades, but the the Bosch I got on the 4100 was not too shabby.
On the sharpening, most lumber yards will send your blades to a nearby sharp shop to get them sharpened. I do that directly, take them in my self. And they come back sharper than the factory new condition. They will also save a blade that needs a chipped tooth replaced.
For the general purpose cutting I use Sun Hill blades, they were sold by Oliver Equipment years ago, but have been discontinued a few years ago. I must have over 100 sharp blades on hand. On my big tablesaw I use the 80t freud for crosscut and rip.
Herb

KMS is a possibility...the Freud dealer up here on the Sunshine Coast won't get any new stock in till late Jan. or early Feb.
Sharpening ain't gonna happen...I have to pay for shipping both ways and that'll cost almost twice as much as the sharpening itself.
Going in to Vancouver...$40 for the ferry plus a 1/4 tank of gas to drive to Port Coquitlam and back ....they can mail the sharpened blade back to me, at my cost.
Note in the write-up ..."The ideal working range is from 1/8" to 1" thick. "
https://www.kmstools.com/freud-industri ... lade-13724

This is the one I wanted, locally, but no stock...
https://www.kmstools.com/freud-industri ... lade-99537

EDIT: !...I just went back to the KMS page and noticed that the Coquitlam Branch has three in stock. Forget local, I'll just order it online.

Buy all three,that will last for awhile.
Herb

DaninVan wrote: ↑Thu Dec 31, 2020 4:11 pm KMS is a possibility...the Freud dealer up here on the Sunshine Coast won't get any new stock in till late Jan. or early Feb.
Sharpening ain't gonna happen...I have to pay for shipping both ways and that'll cost almost twice as much as the sharpening itself.
Going in to Vancouver...$40 for the ferry plus a 1/4 tank of gas to drive to Port Coquitlam and back ....they can mail the sharpened blade back to me, at my cost.
Note in the write-up ..."The ideal working range is from 1/8" to 1" thick. "
https://www.kmstools.com/freud-industri ... lade-13724

This is the one I wanted, locally, but no stock...
https://www.kmstools.com/freud-industri ... lade-99537

EDIT: !...I just went back to the KMS page and noticed that the Coquitlam Branch has three in stock. Forget local, I'll just order it online.

You have to be careful which blade. Some are only designed for plywood/panel thickness. Melamine blades in particular.The D1024 is 3`cut. The glue line rip 18 tooth flat top tooth rip I have is also full depth. It's an industrial line about $100. How close is the nearest Windsor Plywood? The last blades I sent out I took to them which they sent to a service in Penticton. Cost about a dollar a tooth for the 18 tooth glue line but it was worth the cost. Since then I found a local guy who sharpened a 60 tooth 12" and a 24 tooth 10" for just under $15 bucks but he took off a lot of carbide and probably won't stay sharp as long but it's still worth it for cheap blades. I have a feeling he's using something like this: https://www.ebay.com/itm/120-Volt-Circu ... _cvip=true

Good thing I went back and checked the cat. #'s ...wrong one.
This is the one i was trying to buy up here. It's ordered. Done.
https://www.kmstools.com/freud-industri ... ade-174255
I think I'll still buy that Royce blade as an alternate

@Cherryville Chuck
https://www.amazon.com/Blade-Sharpener- ... hi&sr=1-22

Herb

That's a steal...oh, wait, that's in US $$$.