Workers Of Wood

Just ran across this...

Have never experienced this with all the bevel cuts I've made on the table saw...but...apparently there is a way for the cutoff to be hurled back...

I have never had that happen either. I will be more aware now, thanks for posting.
Herb

Yesterday I built a cabinet for Sandra to store her boots on. I used some old oak flooring boards to make 1/8 inch thick strips to band the edges of the 3/4 plywood used to make the cabinet.
I set my table saw up so the 1/8 inch piece was between the guard and the blade.
I also used two bush sticks to advance the material through the cut. This way i had control of both the stock material and the strip.
I pushed the small piece until it was behind the near edge of the blade, then turned the saw off before removing it from behind the blade.
Took a little longer, but for me was a safer method and I had no kick back.

Bushwhacker

Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Thu Dec 31, 2020 6:41 am Yesterday I built a cabinet for Sandra to store her boots on. I used some old oak flooring boards to make 1/8 inch thick strips to band the edges of the 3/4 plywood used to make the cabinet.
I set my table saw up so the 1/8 inch piece was between the guard and the blade.
I also used two bush sticks to advance the material through the cut. This way i had control of both the stock material and the strip.
I pushed the small piece until it was behind the near edge of the blade, then turned the saw off before removing it from behind the blade.
Took a little longer, but for me was a safer method and I had no kick back.

Bushwhacker

Was the 1/8" piece between the blade and the fence...? Or was the flooring between the blade and the fence.

The thin strip should be the cutoff and you should be able to push the flooring all the way through and let the thin strip fall off...

I gather you do have a zero clearance insert...?

If David used a pusher with a sacrificial cleat on the end it wouldn't matter. You are able to clear the cut from between the blade and fence with the pusher. Where it is dangerous is when the off cut stays between the fence and blade after it's cut. A splitter does make that job safer though. One of the other issues that can contribute to bevel rips getting thrown is when the plane of the saw blade is not coplanar to the table. At 90* degrees it might be fine but when tilted the back of the blade might be a different height above the table that the same point at the front of the blade. I read an article in FWW by Ellen Kaspern a couple of years ago about how to measure and true that problem up but it required a dial gauge and magnetic holder (you need a steel top for that to work). In a cabinet saw it involved shimming between corners of the top and the cabinet and in other saws it would require shimming between the trunnion and the saw top. You know if you have that problem by seeing tooth and burn marks on one side of the bevel. When you see those it means you have binding on one end of the cut too.

One solution I've seen to the trapped offcut (between blade and table) is to put the main piece on a piece of panel so that when the offcut is separated it drops down below the blade. Run the panel through first so that it is sized to the gap between the fence and blade.

NO Nick, I do not have a zero clearance insert. But the strip was 6 feet Long and was out on the run off table. I cut them with the strip between the blade and the guide and no my saw does not have splitter. This way i could keep cutting strips with out having to reset the guard each time.

Bushwhacker

I reset my guard 57 yrs. ago and it is still setting there.
HErb

That's exactly why i came up with that sacrificial fence +vertically adjustable wood block over the blade.
The Shark guard bumps up against the fence wheln I slide the fence over close to the blade.
Having to readjust the fence for every slice, when you want the offcut to be on the open side is for me a non-starter.

Appreciate the video and the discussion. Safety is always the watch word.

Herb... I am trying to understand what you meant when you said you " I reset my guard 57 years ago and it is still setting there" ??

David

Yup, I just checked still setting there under a tool bench.
Herb

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Sat Feb 13, 2021 12:20 pm Yup, I just checked still setting there under a tool bench.
Herb

Mine's been hanging on a wall for about 30 years just after I bought the saw. I think since I added the outfeed table that it can't be reinstalled so I should find an out of the way spot to put it and free up that wall space for something I do need to get at.

It didn't happen to me...I was rummaging through a bunch of videos and it came up...I had thought the possibility of a kickback on a left-tilt saw on a bevel cut would be GREATLY reduced.

He showed it on a left tilt saw...otherwise it would have a greater possibility with a right tilt.