Workers Of Wood

Posted: **Mon Jan 18, 2021 9:56 am**

I am getting rid of my Darra James Model 95, 12" TS...time for something new.

My original plan was to buy a new table saw (Grizzly, Laguna, etc...) Now I'm reconsidering that idea and thinking of not investing in a new saw. Instead I'm considering using my Bosch 4100 built into a combination outfeed/cabinet/assembly table.

(1) I've been looking at different configurations but a fence system seems to be needed. The 4100 has an extension that slides out for bigger/wider pieces but if I enclose it in a table I won't be able to extend it. If I stick the saw in the right corner to allow the extension then I won't have an outfeed for the extension. So I'm thinking I need to install an aftermarket fence system (Vega, probably) in the 30"ish size.

(2) I am also wanting to keep the original fence rail on the 4100 for that odd time when it needs to travel so how to install the Vega (?) so that it's there when the 4100 is in the table and not when it travels...? Or do I just buy a cheapie to travel and leave the 4100 permanently in the table...?

Have any of you guys done anything like this...?

Something like this so you see what I mean...
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Posted: **Mon Jan 18, 2021 11:01 am**

The only way I can see that working is if the fence mounts to the table and not the saw, The saw would have to have a way that precisely locates it in the table (like tapered pins or tight fitting cleats) and even then the fence might need to be trued a bit every time it get relocated in the table. One other issue doing it that way would be the length of the fence. It would be farther forward from the blade than normal which means shorter past the blade. Maybe an Accusquare instead of a Vega? They might be able to give you a longer extrusion for the fence.

Alternatively get a good used Rockwell or Delta and keep the 4100 for a backup if you have room. Put it on a roller stand so it goes out of the way. Rockwells had a decent fence to start with and do even better with a Vega or Accusquare. It is very handy to have 2 saws at times when you don't want to change a setting but you need to make another piece. I see Rockwells all the time on FB marketplace for $100 to $150 and they look in good shape. Deltas are usually a little more. I saw a nice looking cabinet saw, probably a contractor model, for $300. I got my Rockwell from a friend for $100 and it was wired for 220, maybe a with a bigger than original motor.

Posted: **Mon Jan 18, 2021 11:29 am**

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 11:01 am The only way I can see that working is if the fence mounts to the table and not the saw, The saw would have to have a way that precisely locates it in the table (like tapered pins or tight fitting cleats) and even then the fence might need to be trued a bit every time it get relocated in the table. One other issue doing it that way would be the length of the fence. It would be farther forward from the blade than normal which means shorter past the blade. Maybe an Accusquare instead of a Vega? They might be able to give you a longer extrusion for the fence.

Exactly the issues. If I mount the fence to the table then it will also be in the way to pull the 4100 out. I could bolt the new fence to the 4100's rail and then just unbolt it when it travels...2-3 bolts should do it. That would eliminate all the realignment issues you pointed out.

I also thought about leaving the 4100 extended in the table and adding a new tape rule for adjusting the fence distance. If I do this I won't need an aftermarket fence at all. But then it won't be right when it's portable.

Thanks for tip on the Accusquare...

Posted: **Mon Jan 18, 2021 2:58 pm**

I'm voting for the new cabinet saw...

Posted: **Mon Jan 18, 2021 3:01 pm**

I had my Accusquare/Mule (it was sold as Mule when I bought it) when I bought the Rockwell so I replaced the original with it. I originally bouught it to replace the crappy fence on an old Craftsman 1hp direct drive. I like it as well as the Unifence on my Unisaw. It was meant to be supported on an aluminum angle iron on the back side of the table but I added a short outfeed which made that impractical. But the UHMW glide moves anywhere in the T slot it mounts in so it sides on the table top. It just needs to be replaced with a thicker one so it doesn't drop in the miter slot. That's one of the things I like about the fence is that it has all the t slots which allows for other possibilities. For $60 they sold me a short fence and hardware to mount to my band saw. It takes about 1 minute to switch the fence from TS to BS. It's also maybe the cheapest after market fence.

Posted: **Mon Jan 18, 2021 4:31 pm**

DaninVan wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 2:58 pm I'm voting for the new cabinet saw...

The reason for the DIY is to be able to reduce the height of the table top. Shoulder will not allow for long stretches so less height will give me better reach. I started playing with the 4100 to see what height I need to make the table and still give me comfortable (and safe) reach. I'll need to do the same with the other whirly devices...router table, RAS, etc...just planning ahead. The arm gets a little spastic when it's raised too high...I'm running about .250 average hitting my mouth with a fork...

Posted: **Mon Jan 18, 2021 4:36 pm**

It certainly sounds like you've run into all the issues I'll need to deal with if I go this route...thanks...

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 3:01 pm It's also maybe the cheapest after market fence

Definitely cheaper than the Vega or others...!

Posted: **Mon Jan 18, 2021 5:43 pm**

I am with Dan on this one, I have the 4100 and my regular saw the direct drive Craftsman. I made cabinets for both and built them so the table tops were the same height as my work bench so that I can use the work bench as needed for an off feed table. I do appreciate 2 saws,quite often keeps me from breaking down a set it to rip or dado a piece.
HErb

Posted: **Mon Jan 18, 2021 7:09 pm**

Nickp wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 4:31 pm
DaninVan wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 2:58 pm I'm voting for the new cabinet saw...

The reason for the DIY is to be able to reduce the height of the table top. Shoulder will not allow for long stretches so less height will give me better reach. I started playing with the 4100 to see what height I need to make the table and still give me comfortable (and safe) reach. I'll need to do the same with the other whirly devices...router table, RAS, etc...just planning ahead. The arm gets a little spastic when it's raised too high...I'm running about .250 average hitting my mouth with a fork...

Just thinking outside the box here...

Posted: **Mon Jan 18, 2021 7:10 pm**

DaninVan wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 7:09 pm
Nickp wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 4:31 pm
DaninVan wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 2:58 pm I'm voting for the new cabinet saw...

The reason for the DIY is to be able to reduce the height of the table top. Shoulder will not allow for long stretches so less height will give me better reach. I started playing with the 4100 to see what height I need to make the table and still give me comfortable (and safe) reach. I'll need to do the same with the other whirly devices...router table, RAS, etc...just planning ahead. The arm gets a little spastic when it's raised too high...I'm running about .250 average hitting my mouth with a fork...
Just thinking outside the box here...

I guess so...LMAO...

Posted: **Mon Jan 18, 2021 7:29 pm**

DaninVan wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 7:09 pm
Nickp wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 4:31 pm
DaninVan wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 2:58 pm I'm voting for the new cabinet saw...

Just thinking outside the box here...

Apparently waaay outside.

Workers Of Wood

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