Workers Of Wood

Here's a handy panel carrier...adjustable so that you can take it off the truck and set it to match the TS table top and "VIOLA", panel ready to be cut.

https://www.amazon.com/Portamate-PM-180 ... =hi&sr=1-4

Nick, you are going to have to get that helper, if you plan on doing any panel cutting. Just one job will pay for the Dr. bills if you don't have it. Now to figure out how to get the panel off the truck,maybe rollers on the tailgate?
https://www.carid.com/loadhandler/

Maybe the blond would come with it.
Herb

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Tue Jan 19, 2021 6:36 am Nick, you are going to have to get that helper, if you plan on doing any panel cutting. Just one job will pay for the Dr. bills if you don't have it. Now to figure out how to get the panel off the truck,maybe rollers on the tailgate?
https://www.carid.com/loadhandler/

Maybe the blond would come with it.
Herb

A good assistant is always a good thing...

I'm seriously considering the panel carrier...even if it's to put a panel on a surface...

What I've been doing is cutting what I need right off the back of the truck. The 3500 is pretty tall at the tail gate so it will be very useful to handle the sheet. I like the roller idea...I like the blonde better. She looks a lot like Lara Spencer from the "Flea Market Flip" show...

Nick, do you watch those sledge hammer remodelers....For Shame.......
HErb

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Tue Jan 19, 2021 9:35 am Nick, do you watch those sledge hammer remodelers....For Shame.......
HErb

No way...I don't watch any of those shows that don't repurpose perfectly good kitchens, etc...first thing they do is break out the sledgehammers...

I made an egg-crate cutting table that's the perfect size (height) to drop the sheets on after pulling them out of the bed of the truck. On a good day, I can get the end of the plywood to the edge of the tailgate and then let it drop onto the table, then just need to scoot it a few more inches to clear the end of the tailgate.
First assembly of the grid
Notch at the joints
Dadoes in plywood strip keep the grid from moving on the sawhorses.
Pulling a sheet out of the truck onto the grid.
Getting ready to break the sheet down into strips before cross-cutting to length.
And the grid doubles as an assembly table too. This was the first time using the grid, I've since gone to clamping strips to the end of the cross-members to act as legs as it gets a little tippy when you're working at the edge and put any downward force on the table.
And the (almost) finished shelf unit, you can see the grid components stored on the top back against the outer wall. Another modification I had to make was add nail-on splice plates at the notches on the long pieces as I had one crack there when I dropped it.

It's good that it supports all the weight. I wonder how hard it is to steer and push?

I just took the top half of an old lawn mower handle and flattened the bottom tips with a hammer and them bent them into a U shape to hold the panels. They carry quite easily that way. Crude but it works well. The lawn mower handle puts the other hand holding the top of the sheet at only shoulder height which is still manageable without having to take pain killers first.

tomp wrote: ↑Tue Jan 19, 2021 11:11 am I made an egg-crate cutting table that's the perfect size (height) to drop the sheets on after pulling them out of the bed of the truck. On a good day, I can get the end of the plywood to the edge of the tailgate and then let it drop onto the table, then just need to scoot it a few more inches to clear the end of the tailgate.

THAT is a great idea...normally I hang the sheet over an edge to cut it to size...this is MUCH better. And I love that it stores so well...!

For sure, the next sheet that comes off the truck will be cut up to make the grid. THANK YOU...!

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Tue Jan 19, 2021 11:48 am It's good that it supports all the weight. I wonder how hard it is to steer and push?

One of the videos I looked at says to pick up or push down slightly on one end of the sheet or the other to help the wheels steer. It also says to do that for rough surfaces...they show it carrying a sheet up a dirt driveway.

The wheels look big enough to handle steering and rough surfaces...

I ordered one so we'll know when it gets here.

Those grids work for everything, they are great for cutting long siding etc. just lay a sheet of plywood on it and the chop saw and your in business. When done the whole thing can be broke down and bundled up to store.
HErb

Nickp wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 7:13 pm Here's a handy panel carrier...adjustable so that you can take it off the truck and set it to match the TS table top and "VIOLA", panel ready to be cut.

https://www.amazon.com/Portamate-PM-180 ... =hi&sr=1-4

This guy needs an off feed stand or table!

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Tue Jan 19, 2021 5:01 pm

Nickp wrote: ↑Mon Jan 18, 2021 7:13 pm Here's a handy panel carrier...adjustable so that you can take it off the truck and set it to match the TS table top and "VIOLA", panel ready to be cut.

https://www.amazon.com/Portamate-PM-180 ... =hi&sr=1-4

This guy needs an off feed stand or table!

For sure...it's not like he doesn't have room in the shop...!

Trying to hold that sheet down with one thumb as it comes off the blade can turn into a disaster.
HErb

I tried the out feed stand but you usually have to put it slightly lower to keep from running into it head on and with the downhill angle the sheets can run away on you, sometimes incurring a little damage. That's why I eventually decided to replace my old table with one that was wide enough to hold the sheet up after it was cut. The rollers work great on the infeed side to hold a sheet up.

As an alternative you could build a portable work table instead that is the same height as the saw with enough chamfer on the leading edge to keep from butting into the edge of it. Those castors from the other topic would work great if you built in enough overhang on the two sides (next to the saw and away from the saw) and that would eliminate the tripping hazard Herb mentioned as well as allow you to sit on a stool on those two sides with your legs under the overhang while you work. The middle could be drawers on both sides. A 4' by 4" table like that would be a dandy work platform whether at the saw or wheeled away from it.

In a previous life I bought one of those roller stands and found out that if you don't set it up exactly parallel to the end of the saw table it will roll the material either towards the fence or away, and fighting that while ripping can become a safety hazard.
I found that breaking the sheets down into slightly larger pieces than required before ripping on the TS works better for me. That is where that sawhorse table like Tom mentioned comes in handy. A skilsaw and a straight edge is my friendly way of beaking them into smaller chunks.
Herb

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Tue Jan 19, 2021 6:08 pm I tried the out feed stand but you usually have to put it slightly lower to keep from running into it head on and with the downhill angle the sheets can run away on you, sometimes incurring a little damage. That's why I eventually decided to replace my old table with one that was wide enough to hold the sheet up after it was cut. The rollers work great on the infeed side to hold a sheet up.

As an alternative you could build a portable work table instead that is the same height as the saw with enough chamfer on the leading edge to keep from butting into the edge of it. Those castors from the other topic would work great if you built in enough overhang on the two sides (next to the saw and away from the saw) and that would eliminate the tripping hazard Herb mentioned as well as allow you to sit on a stool on those two sides with your legs under the overhang while you work. The middle could be drawers on both sides. A 4' by 4" table like that would be a dandy work platform whether at the saw or wheeled away from it.

Actually, I was thinking of the other way around...roll the saw to the table (assuming I use the 4100). If I wind up with a cabinet saw then I would make the table mobile so that I could pull it away from the saw and use the table for assembly. My plan is still to precut the pieces with the circ saw and not use the saw to break down the sheets. I just don't have the room to have a small outfeed table dedicated to the saw AND an assembly/storage table...will need to do double duty. The casters are removable and I plan on using that feature...I don't plan on moving either the saw or the table that often. To your point, the equipment cabinets and the outfeed/assembly table will have plenty of drawers and shelves.

Putting the casters on the rest of the equipment is strictly for convenience and space...I can pile them in a corner or line them up against the wall until I need them. The bandsaw, for example, has always been on wheels and in a corner until I need it. The Dewalt RAS also is and will be mobile because I don't want to take up the space it would otherwise need if mounted permanently in a station. I'll be putting fold-down wings on the RAS for longer pieces.

I'm thankful you guys are making me think and re-think some of my earlier plans...thanks for that...

I will throw out this comment just for kicks.
I put my drum sander on castors, and as you are aware the garage floors slope 1/8" per foot. That was enough to cause the feed belt to run from one side to another.
Also consider 2 separate items, a Table Saw and an Assembly table matching height wise being spaced apart,that is why Chucks sugestion of making the table slightly lower than the saw is a good one to consider.
Just saying
Herb

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Tue Jan 19, 2021 6:40 pm In a previous life I bought one of those roller stands and found out that if you don't set it up exactly parallel to the end of the saw table it will roll the material either towards the fence or away, and fighting that while ripping can become a safety hazard.
I found that breaking the sheets down into slightly larger pieces than required before ripping on the TS works better for me. That is where that sawhorse table like Tom mentioned comes in handy. A skilsaw and a straight edge is my friendly way of beaking them into smaller chunks.
Herb

I've had the same issue with the rollers steering the sheet without me wanting them to. If I use those I have to remember to position the stand so that it pushes towards the fence.

Better yet are these stands from Canadian Tire that have a roller on one side and transfer balls on the other. You just flip from one side to the other depending on your preference. My son has 2 of them which he leaves in my shop luckily. The transfer balls don't have a bias so they are the side that is usually up. https://www.canadiantire.ca/en/pdp/tri- ... p.html#srp

I like that idea the best. if a person uses roller bars.
HErb

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Tue Jan 19, 2021 11:33 pm roller on one side and transfer balls on the other

Not the same brand but I have the same...for the same reasons. I've been using them in the shop but are especially useful for job site work.

Photo of a small, easily-stored (a big plus in my shop) roller infeed/outfeed support. A couple of scraps of wood, a $10 car scissor jack from the junk yard and you have an adjustable roller stand that can be clamped to the top of a sawhorse and easily adjusted to the job.
And, with a little ingenuity, the roller support can be removable and replaced with the support needed to jack up my trike for an oil change.

Great idea! I like it! I keep a couple jacks around for such ideas. Find them cheap at garage sales.

Excellent idea, Tom...especially that it's double duty...

Now I know what to do with all the extra jacks...