Workers Of Wood

Hi guys:

Hope everyone is well. I haven't done diddly squat poo in the shop since Easter; no energy. But after getting the camper, Ken decided he wanted me to make a new campsite sign for us, so I did accomplish that. Well, the sign is designed, anyway. I still have to cut it. Which brings me to my question:

I gave my jointer away, as it kept getting in the way; I had to keep moving it here and there, trying to make the shop the most functional; maximizing the room, etc. Anyway... can I use a straight bit on my router table to perform the same function as my jointer did?

I'm asking, because I found This Sign and was gonna make it, but it was asked "why can't you do it as one piece?" Well, I guess I could, but I would have to join two pieces together, considering the size of it, because I don't like the look of those boards that are glued together. Either that, or I'm gonna leave the design as it is; the jury is still out.

Thoughts/Ideas?

@Stick486 propones using a router table as a jointer...

OutoftheWoodwork wrote: ↑Sun May 02, 2021 7:55 am can I use a straight bit on my router table to perform the same function as my jointer did?

The answer is yes...you will need a way to make the outfeed from the bit proud of the infeed. This is generally done with a split fence where a spacer would be placed behind the outfeed portion of the fence making it proud of the infeed half of the fence.

If you don't have a split fence you could add tape to the outfeed to build up that section of the fence.

There is an alignment procedure to set up the bit with the infeed side.

@Stick486 has some literature that I'm sure he will post when he sees this thread...it's actually easier than it sounds...

Sominus wrote: ↑Sun May 02, 2021 8:31 am @Stick486 propones using a router table as a jointer...

not the table..
free hand...

what do ya know...
got one for the RT...

OutoftheWoodwork wrote: ↑Sun May 02, 2021 7:55 am "why can't you do it as one piece?"

BTW...
I'd blind spline that much of a sign...
(Thin (4~5MM) Baltic Birch makes for great splines)
. .

ALSO, if you use redwood or cedar treat the glue up as oily tropical wood...
.
.
NOTE...

Use synthetic, non-water-based glues...
Since water is repelled by the wood’s oils, using water-based glues like Titebond® can pose problems—though Titebond® II or III are usually better at gluing oily woods than Titebond® Original. Instead, use glues that aren’t water based, and/or glues such as WELDBOND that can bond a wider variety of materials like plastics and other non-porous surfaces (since that’s practically what we’re doing with these exotic woods anyways).

Weldbond adhesive... (it ain't glue)...

'

Here's a visual to go along with the words...

I use my router table regularly to get glue quality edges.
If you have a router table anyway its worth making a split fence, because using tape to pack one side can be a problem when it binds to the wood, or peels off halfway along a plank.
I use two pieces of 0.5 mm plastic (1 /64th") between the front face and the main body to space out the fence. Use an ali straight edge and adjust the front of the cutting bit flush to the outfeed fence.
ALWAYS make a test cut, if there is snipe at the end of the cut adjust the infeed side slightly forward and cut again till its completely flush.

Barb

Bring em by and we can either use the jointer or what I usually do is run the pieces on the table saw with the Ridge Carbide blade and they are good enough to glue and clamp.

Thanks for all the input, guys.

Was gonna work on it last weekend, but that fell through; just no energy anymore to do diddly squat sh*t!!! Went to gf's house Saturday and typed up an appeal letter for her hubby (who was screwed over by the company he retired from: they're trying to re-neg on a legal agreement from 1997) anyway... Sunday was over before I knew it, and here we are, Tuesday, the next week!

Screw It - stick a fork in me; I'm done...

May the Forth be with you, barb...........
Or you can joint the boards with a hand plane.

Herb