Workers Of Wood

Movement on a clock I made for my MIL some 40+ years ago finally gave out. I ordered a new one and it's (darn) 1/8" wider than the opening. This isn't a collector item - they just like it. Now......How do I take 1/16" off each side to let it slide in the opening? The front is glued to the sides so taking it off isn't an option. Need about 4" on each side.

My first impression is a sharp chisel and a little patience...treat it like a huge mortise...

How deep does the movement need to go...the entire depth of the sides...?

Not sure if you need a rabet or a full depth like Nick asked. Does it have to be full height too? Can you post a pic of the new movement? You may have to use a Rotary Rasp/Drum.
https://www.amazon.com/s?k=rotary+rasp& ... yiq6rcar_e
Herb

Movement is 4 1/2" on the left side and 3" on the right (battery) side too wide. It is 2" thick and the back is 3 1/4" deep. Was thinking about trying to grind the movement but don't want to waste $75 either.

I can't quite visualize how that fits into your case, are we looking at the back of the case or the front? I assume we are looking at the back of the movement.
Is the case oriented like the movement?
Is there a separate face dial? is it rectangular outer dimension? on the other side of the case?
What is that long rod on the left side?

Herb

Thats the back of the case and movement. The rods are the Bim Bam chimes. Movement fits into the case just like they are pictured.

Is the base that attaches plastic, or metal?
I don't see any old attachment holes in the case was the old movement attached differently?
Is the whole movement supposed to slide into the back of the face of the case?
Will the hole for the hands line up with new movement?
It looks like the dial may be a Hexagon?
Herb

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Tue Jun 01, 2021 10:52 pm Is the base that attaches plastic, or metal?
I don't see any old attachment holes in the case was the old movement attached differently?
Is the whole movement supposed to slide into the back of the face of the case?
Will the hole for the hands line up with new movement?
It looks like the dial may be a Hexagon?
Herb

It attaches to something like fiberboard.
The old movement just screwed into that.
The whole movement goes into the back.
Lots of room for the movement to line up on the up and down space.
Dial is round - the hexagon is the Regulater cover that flips up.

The more I think about it I think Nicks idea is best. Maybe best thing is take and mark out the space to be cut, and take a pullsaw and score the sides with a saw cut, then with a broad chisel clean out between the top and bottom marks,until it will slide in.
Herb

Check the spindle it doesn't look centered, you might have to cut deeper on right side than left side.
Herb

Make a new case in the old style.
Dont tell them, they wont notice.

Easier said than done or I would.

Oscillating tool to make cuts and a chisel.

Or use a Forstner bit in the drill press, make a bunch of shallow half moon type cuts down the sides, think plowed field, and clean up with a chisel. Or don't clean it up since it is the back and won't be seen.

To take of 1/8" 0r 1/16",.........I don't know if that would work. But if you were doing that way, cut a full length 3/4 Board and clamp it inside so the bit drills a full hole, part in the side and part in the sacrificial piece. Then you could drill a little more out both sides to give you some adjustment sideways to align the spindle.
Herb

for a sixteenth...
very coarse paper and get sanding...
ROS...
Pad...
DP and Drum...

I think I got it -- used the multi tool with the hardwood blade. Didn't have to be pretty but it fits now. Now I'm trying to switch out the copper rods wit the old one. Of course they're different sizes. More to come tomorrow.

It fits now!!! Trying to change rods from the old movement to the new one (bigger rods - not a tinny sound). Of course the threads are different sizes.

Good one John, I am glad you won that battle.
Herb

Those Multitools do come in handy once in awhile.
Herb

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Wed Jun 02, 2021 12:00 am The more I think about it I think Nicks idea is best. Maybe best thing is take and mark out the space to be cut, and take a pullsaw and score the sides with a saw cut, then with a broad chisel clean out between the top and bottom marks,until it will slide in.
Herb

Using that idea, how about your multitool with a fine saw blade? They're pretty accurate in use.

Better than a chainsaw,thats for sure. no fumes.
HErb

DaninVan wrote: ↑Thu Jun 10, 2021 10:55 am

Herb Stoops wrote: ↑Wed Jun 02, 2021 12:00 am The more I think about it I think Nicks idea is best. Maybe best thing is take and mark out the space to be cut, and take a pullsaw and score the sides with a saw cut, then with a broad chisel clean out between the top and bottom marks,until it will slide in.
Herb

Using that idea, how about your multitool with a fine saw blade? They're pretty accurate in use.

I recommended these blades on the old forum and at least one member tried them and reported back on them. They cut wood like it's warm butter. He used them to cut through HPL coated particle board or mdf (I think he said splashboards) and was amazed how many cuts he made. At $2 per blade in bulk it's hard to go wrong on them. They come in various widths. I have some of the regular black painted carbon blades from them too and they are also pretty good but nothing like the stainless ones. They are really thin so they can wander a bit but hat is a small issue when they cut as easily as they do.
https://www.specialtydiamond.com/versa- ... ls-50-pack

I have used the wood cutting blade on a multi tool for many jobs.
Cutting a formica covered kitchen worksurface to fit a hob, no problem. A clean straight splinter free cut.
Slicing through grouting to remove a damaged tile without scoring adjacent tiles, no problem, but it wears fast.
I have also used it for cutting a new electrical socket hole into cement and concrete. It works, but thats a one use blade
Dont think I have ever used one on plain wood