Need A Helping Hand Please

[OutoftheWoodwork]

So I bought a file. It's a CNC file. It's to make a display shelf that I really would like to use at my fair, but it needs to be modified, and every time I try, I screw it up.

The two pictures are of the actual one I want; but I can't find a file/pattern/plan to make it as it's shown. The guy's selling them for like $68 + a pc. However, I found one with single tabs for the shelves. I would rather have the two, as I know it will hold more weight, and all the shelves need to be the same size, as in the picture. I found it on Etsy. Seller is Squirrelcreationz

Is there anyone who can take a CNC file and modify the tab to be two tabs and two slots in the brace? The dimensions are Width: 30 inches Height: 26 inches Depth: 17 inches If you can, I'll email it to you.

[Cherryville Chuck]

I suspect that there is a tricky relationship between the slope of the brace, the size of the holes, and the thickness of the tabs.

[MikeSibley]

I don't mind taking a shot at it for you, but nothing is guaranteed!

[OutoftheWoodwork]

I suspect that there is a tricky relationship between the slope of the brace, the size of the holes, and the thickness of the tabs.

The "slippery slope" is that I don't know how to work the CNC program Charles I need the tab in the pattern to be split in two, and the holes split in two. The slope of the brace is just caused by the piece that is stuck into the back that holds it up.

Ah well. It was worth a shot.

[DaninVan]

I think what Charles was suggesting was that if the slots are cut perpendicular to the face of the vertical stand and the same height (ie 3/4") as the thickness of the shelves, the shelves will in fact slope backwards when installed.
You would need extra slop in the vertical height of the slot to allow the shelves to rest at a horizontal position.

[Cherryville Chuck]

I think what Charles was suggesting was that if the slots are cut perpendicular to the face of the vertical stand and the same height (ie 3/4") as the thickness of the shelves, the shelves will in fact slope backwards when installed.
You would need extra slop in the vertical height of the slot to allow the shelves to rest at a horizontal position.

Exactly Dan. Too tight and the shelves will slope backwards. Maybe not much because there will be some compression in the materials. Which brings up another issue, namely more weight will cause them to droop. Too loose and they'll slope forward right from the get go.

I have a personal tendency to over build everything. That is probably because I hate failures as they represent wasted time and material. So I would rather use more time and material to begin with and avoid failure. As such I would modify the design and add braces. It can still be a knock down design with braces, you just need dowels in the braces and matching holes in the shelf and back frame.

I would stick with the two holes and 2 tabs but add a triangular base between them under the shelf. A dowel at the bottom of the brace and one near the upper, outer tip of the brace and shelf. Install the the brace into the back and then install the shelf and slide it back until it drops down onto the upper dowel. Because the back is angled it will stay in with just gravity, no fasteners needed.

[Bushwhacker]

I am the same way, Charles. I over built everything. Looking at this shelve. I would guess that if the wood for the back of the shelves is 3/4 then the holes should be 1/2, with an upwards hook on the tabs, and a cut down to 1/2 close to the shelving material.
That should hold them level even with weight on them.
I think the slots would have to be cut at a 45 to allow the shelves to hang level.
Just my thought looking at the plans
I kind of like the design of it and might just steal the idea.
I don't think I need the plans it looks simple enough.
I am currently replacing my kitchen floor and retiling it. Once I get that done and Sandra doesn't have something else on her list (yes, she has a list).
I might just try to knock one out
Good luck with this Barb.

Bushwhacker

Possibly add an extra piece of lumber below the tabs and set back the depth of the holes in the back piece. This would take up some of the stress put on the tabs by whatever is placed on the shelves.
Hmmm, I might just throw a piece of plywood over the hole in the kitchen floor and make one of these. I wonder is Sandra would notice.

[OutoftheWoodwork]

I kind of like the design of it and might just steal the idea.
I don't think I need the plans it looks simple enough.

I love the design, and the sleek look of it, which is why I wanted it so badly. I actually considered buying one and using it as a template till I saw the shipping was $40 (just from Canada to Michigan... hate to see what others would pay!) So I was looking at $120 for this thing. Can't do it. So anyway, the guy selling the shelf (first pictures) says the design is his own creation, and won't sell me the plans. He also made the supports out of 3/4 and the shelves out of 1/2" according to the description on his Etsy page.

The guy who made the CNC file made it in Aspire, which when John tried to export it as a pdf or a svg, both files will only open with a browser, not any programs. Frustrating to say the least. I can usually get svg to open in adobe, and of course adobe should open the pdf but won't. Don't know if it was the way John exported, or if it's in the coding of Aspire... who knows!

[Stick486]

do a layout on the riser/backboard...
set the angle you want for it on the DP table...
cut the rectangles w/ a mortiser...
fit the shelves...

[MikeSibley]

I appears to me that the holes are just large enough to make the shelves be flat, from the photos it seems that they are cut at 90-degrees to the wood and are just wide (or long depending on how you look at it) to make the shelves parallel to the base. The same on the back.

I"m going to play with it and see how it goes. I'll have to dredge up some old trigonometry from the far deep depths of my memories (or Google) to see.

Mike

[Stick486]

your DP table doesn't tilt...
.

Angle Table for DP.jpg

[Stick486]

drill angled holes at the end of your rectangles..
cut out the core w/ your jigsaw set to matching angle...
square the drilled holes or leave them as is... your shelf will hide the slot..

[Cherryville Chuck]

I appears to me that the holes are just large enough to make the shelves be flat, from the photos it seems that they are cut at 90-degrees to the wood and are just wide (or long depending on how you look at it) to make the shelves parallel to the base. The same on the back.

I"m going to play with it and see how it goes. I'll have to dredge up some old trigonometry from the far deep depths of my memories (or Google) to see.

Mike

sine= length of the side opposite your angle/ the length of the hypotenuse.

[Cherryville Chuck]

drill angled holes at the end of your rectangles..
cut out the core w/ your jigsaw set to matching angle...
square the drilled holes or leave them as is... your shelf will hide the slot..

I had a similar idea but would just take a chop saw and cut couple boards or ply to the right angle and make a sloped table out of them. Yours is a good jig if you do lots of angles and will use it regularly. This could be a "one of" so i would keep it as simple as possible. Plus I hate keeping jigs around that take up valuable room. I prefer to toss something together out of scraps and then junk it when I'm done.

I also considered doing something really simple like mounting picture frame hangers on the standing part and then using something like these Z clips on the back of the triangles to hook onto the picture hangers. https://www.leevalley.com/en-gb/shop/ha ... em=13K0101
Kind of a variation of the French cleat mounting system. French cleats would work too. Screw a pair of cleats on for each triangle and then notch the backs of the triangles to hook onto them.

[Stick486]

Yours is a good jig if you do lots of angles and will use it regularly.

as often as Barb makes angles to the dangles.. for her it just may be the ticket...

[Stick486]

Yours is a good jig if you do lots of angles and will use it regularly.

she could make a wedge shaped base for a router and cut the slots using a straight bit...
most of the router makers offer tilt bases...

[OutoftheWoodwork]

set the angle you want for it on the DP table...

Well that's out - I don't have a drill press anymore; it went to the side of the road a week ago.

[OutoftheWoodwork]

I actually reached out to the maker of the shelf and asked if he would be willing to tell me where he got the plans, or if it was his, if he would consider selling me the plans, and (as I figured) he said no. The guy I bought the plans from is (last I checked) was going to see if he could change the format of the pattern so I can work with it.

We'll see.

[Cherryville Chuck]

set the angle you want for it on the DP table...

Well that's out - I don't have a drill press anymore; it went to the side of the road a week ago.

Wouldn't hold the chuck in?

[OutoftheWoodwork]

set the angle you want for it on the DP table...

Well that's out - I don't have a drill press anymore; it went to the side of the road a week ago.

Wouldn't hold the chuck in?

Chuck fell out right after I got it. Was never centered right after Ken got it back in, so it got off-kilter bad enough to where I couldn't get straight holes with it, but it wasn't comin out to try and fix, so..... Scrap Man got it.

[Herb Stoops]

My concern would be the tabs on the shelves with the grain going the same way as the shelf might not hold much weight without shearing off. If I was to do it, I would cut the shelves straight and attach a block to the side with a mortise or dowels crosswise.
Herb