For sliding tablesaws: The Fritz and Franz jig

[Sominus]

For those who have the Euro-style sliding tablesaws (not the American style cabinet saw with an add-on slider), the Fritz and Franz jig can overcome many perceived drawbacks.

[Biagio]

Many thanks, Michael.

My TS is an EU version of the Bosch 4100, but has a built in (although of course limited) sliding table. I have been nervous about using it. This idea may eliminate the need for me to build a sled, for many uses.

[Sominus]

I've got the Grizzly G0623X (that I picked up for the princely sum of $1500) -- it is positively dwarfed by the likes of Knapp and Hammer versions that the guys on many of the Youtube vids have. I'm definitely going to use the F&F jig -- I might even go so far as to build a couple pneumatic hold downs as time allows.

[DaninVan]

I tried to read that text at the link; I'm lost. No clue as to what it looked like. I didn't see any sketches or pics...did I miss something?

[Biagio]

Dan, did the link not take you to Core77.com? Just tried it again, works fine from here.

[Herb Stoops]

I can't get in either. I even tried to turn on cookies and join,but didn't respond.
HErb

[Biagio]

Try this YouTube url. If it works for you I will post the urls of the rest of the videos and copy a sketch. I must say that on the website there is a link to a pdf which does not work.

[Sominus]

YouTube has several videos of various f&f jigs — just search for “fritz and franz”

[Herb Stoops]

That opened OK
HErb

[Cherryville Chuck]

They certainly have some advantages over TS operations. They had one at a fireplace mantle factory I worked at years ago. It would rip a full sheet of plywood. One like that takes a lot of room. You need more than 8' on either end plus at least about 12' wide.

One operation they were doing there was cutting strips of ply at 45* angles and joining them to make legs. But they were doing it on a unisaw and the edges weren't even and needing lots of filling and didn't look that nice. I made a jig for the slider that held the pieces in place and down tight against the jig and they came out perfect because they could be pushed through in one smooth seamless stroke.

I have a small add on slider to my backup TS. I use it for cutoff and a lot for doing half lap joints. That can be done on just the TS but I find the slider does it a little better. You can use the fence as a depth stop when doing lap joints.

The video shows cutting tapers in one part. It looked like they were just marking them out and lining the marks up with something. There is a simple jig I make for the TS that is good for repeatable cuts and only takes a couple of minutes to make. I just take a strip of panel board longer than my tapered pieces and set it up so that it fits snugly between the blade and fence. Then I mark the taper on my piece and line the marks up to the edge of the panel strip. Screw down a stop at the end of the piece and one at each end on the sides and you're good to go. Add a toggle clamp or two if you think you need them. I don't do tapers that often so I don't bother with a permanent adjustable jig which would take up a lot of room. And it only takes a couple of minutes to make it so that wouldn't be worthwhile.

[Herb Stoops]

I do the same I have 2 jigs, LH - RH so I can do both sides of a piece to make round projects like planters,or buckets,etc.
Herb

[Cherryville Chuck]

I do the same I have 2 jigs, LH - RH so I can do both sides of a piece to make round projects like planters,or buckets,etc.
Herb

Those wouldn't be that big and would probably get used often enough to make it worth the time to make the side stops adjustable in slots with knobs to tighten then down in place.