1001 Uses for Rare Earth Magnets?

#1

Here is an opportunity to share all the uses you have for rare earth magnets. Here are some of mine:

Holding a chuck key to the side of a drill press. Originally I epoxied it to the side but one day the epoxy let go and I realized that the magnet usually sticks to the drill press and if it doesn't it sticks to the key. Now I use magnets to hold any essential wrench to its machine.

If you stick a 1/4" magnet to the shaft of a screwdriver it will hold the screw on the end for you. Even a slotted screw sticks.

You can stick a 1/4" magnet inside a 1/4" socket and that allows you to use a small ratchet to drive screws without the driver constantly falling out. This can be handy in a tight space or when you need some extra torque.

Holding doors closed- These work way better than closures/clips and don't require the same fussy alignment. Lee Valley sells washers and cups that facilitate this type operation. Even the head of a flat head screw works well.

Mounting curtains on a steel frame door. No need to drill and hope you hit wood. Just use a minimum 3/8" diameter rare earth magnet (or two) in each rod holder.

Attaching toe kicks to cupboards. The added advantage to doing this is that it allows you to pop them off to check for leaks in the space between cupboard floors and the main floor and it also provides a space to store valuables.

Using magnets instead of a hinge on box lids-If you drill holes in the frame of a box for magnets and corresponding holes in the lid and you make sure that the magnets in one side are reverse polarity from the other then the lids will center to the magnetic attraction as per the photos. Eight 1/4" magnets will lift the box so the lid stays put once it's on.

Nickp · #2

Great timing...! I was looking for a bunch in different sizes the other day...

Do you have a good source for a variety of sizes...?

Herb Stoops · #3

Nickp wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 10:40 am Great timing...! I was looking for a bunch in different sizes the other day...

Do you have a good source for a variety of sizes...?

I do all the ones that Chuck listed.
One I know Chuck uses but didn't list was the one on the end of a stick to reach under the bench to pick up dropped screws.
Another is to hold notes to a machine/metal rack, just use magnet over note.

@Nickp
https://www.kjmagnetics.com/products.asp?cat=168
HErb

DaninVan · #4

Nick was looking for a source. LV has a bunch of options , but this comes closest to answering the question...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/ha ... em=99K3350

#5

DaninVan wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 11:26 am Nick was looking for a source. LV has a bunch of options , but this comes closest to answering the question...
https://www.leevalley.com/en-ca/shop/ha ... em=99K3350

Like Dan said, all of mine have come from LV. I've heard of other sources down there LV is the only one up here especially with the extra accessories you can get for them. I've never needed larger than 1/2" That size is very powerful. To pull two 1/2" of those magnets apart you pretty much have to slide them apart to break the attraction. I use 1/4" for most things. Some of the accessories are handy too like the countersunk washers if you are using the magnets to hold doors closed. I've also used the cups with the magnets. There is a countersunk hole in the bottom of the cup so that you don't have to glue them in. Once the magnet goes in the cup there is no way to get it back out. I keep some of those 3 things in my spare parts bin.

#6

Magnets would be good for making tool racks too such as a chisel rack or one for turning tools at a lathe.

tomp · #7

My wife is big on the vinyl sheets for decorating the front door, put them up with Scotch tape and I had to struggle to take them down each year without tearing the flimsy vinyl - not easy and so the panels only lasted a few years. Had a "Eureka" moment when it dawned on me that magnets would be perfect to hold the panel on the (steel) door. So, not only is it way easier to take down, it's also easier to put up as you can put a magnet in one corner and then stretch the panel across to get any wrinkles out. Not a woodworking use, but certainly cuts way down on the aggravation when she's doing her (Easter, Thanksgiving and Christmas, etc.) decorating.

Door Panel.jpg

kmealy · #8

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 1:11 pm Magnets would be good for making tool racks too such as a chisel rack or one for turning tools at a lathe.

I got some magnetic tool bars at HF's Black Friday sale, $1.99 each regularly $4.99, they even gave me 20% off one of them. They really stick to each other on their rack. I plan to use them 2 per, on the lids of some tool boxes that I've made. One isn't quite strong enough all the time.

These were another COVID project from the wood pile. One for me and one for each of my twin grandsons. Design roughly based on a Frank Klausz traveling tool box.

image.png

Nickp · #9

Very nice boxes, Keith...!

Herb Stoops · #10

Kieth, those are super tool kits, they are built to transport and also for bench use,sturdy built too. should last a life time.
I like the idea of the magnetic tool holder.
HErb

kmealy · #11

My "work traveling tool box" was a Husky nylon open top tote. I liked it a lot and well-tuned to what I needed for work. When I retired, I still carried it and added one or two things and took out some of the upholstery tools. I decided to make myself one of these and keep it in the car.

image.png

Herb Stoops · #12

Those Kevlar totes are like armor plate, wish they had those when I was in the trades.
I still have a wooden one I built in 1965 that I used for decades, broke the bar handle a couple of times using it as a saw horse.
Herb

#13

kmealy wrote: ↑Tue Dec 01, 2020 3:58 pm
Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Mon Nov 30, 2020 1:11 pm Magnets would be good for making tool racks too such as a chisel rack or one for turning tools at a lathe.
I got some magnetic tool bars at HF's Black Friday sale, $1.99 each regularly $4.99, they even gave me 20% off one of them. They really stick to each other on their rack. I plan to use them 2 per, on the lids of some tool boxes that I've made. One isn't quite strong enough all the time.

These were another COVID project from the wood pile. One for me and one for each of my twin grandsons. Design roughly based on a Frank Klausz traveling tool box.

image.png

image.png

I agree Keith. If you can get those bars that cheap it doesn't pay to use individual magnets as a rule. My wife gave me one she got somewhere and I use it for my turning tools. Those are nice sturdy looking tool boxes. It reminds me of back when I was a kid. I think every tradesman had something like that to pack their tools to the job. Now it's all "systainers" that cost as much as the tools that are in them.

Herb Stoops · #14

"systainers" I had to look that one up, Chuck, never heard that term before. Isn't molded plastic great? What are they going to do when the New Green Deal" goes through and they shut down all the petroleum related manufacturing?
Just saying.
Herb

DaninVan · #15

I use one of these as a big fridge magnet...

https://www.magnetsource.com/pages/cow-magnets
https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffsb&q=cow+st ... &ia=images

#16

DaninVan wrote: ↑Tue Dec 01, 2020 7:47 pm I use one of these as a big fridge magnet...

https://www.magnetsource.com/pages/cow-magnets
https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffsb&q=cow+st ... &ia=images

New or reused?

Nickp · #17

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Tue Dec 01, 2020 10:00 pm
DaninVan wrote: ↑Tue Dec 01, 2020 7:47 pm I use one of these as a big fridge magnet...

https://www.magnetsource.com/pages/cow-magnets
https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffsb&q=cow+st ... &ia=images
New or reused?

Wait...! Reused...? You mean twice...?

DaninVan · #18

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Tue Dec 01, 2020 10:00 pm
DaninVan wrote: ↑Tue Dec 01, 2020 7:47 pm I use one of these as a big fridge magnet...

https://www.magnetsource.com/pages/cow-magnets
https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffsb&q=cow+st ... &ia=images
New or reused?
[/quote

Reused of course. 'Waste not; want not."
Cleaned first, goes without saying.

Biagio · #19

Chuck, pardon my ignorance, but who uses systainers and how? I have landed up with a few DeWalt ones, as you say, doubling the price of the tool, and many tools are not available without a systainer. I managed to get a DeWalt cordless jigsaw in a cardboard box, probably because it was not the new brushless model. The systainers sit in the loft, as I do not have space for them in my workshop. I would sell them, if I could.5
I gather that they all clip together in a tower, and the interior moulding keeps the tools safe, but when you get to a jobsite, do you have to first unclip all the boxes in the tower, then haul each out, then reverse the process before leaving? My father's carpenters had large, self-made wooden toolboxes - I doubt they would have bought into the logic of systainers.

Herb Stoops · #20

@Biagio Same here we had Gang Boxes on the job for the Company furnished tools and Wooden cabinet type boxes on castors for the interior carpenters, built by each carpenter. The exterior carpenters had their own tote boxe for their hand tools.
I will say that the plastic cases did save a lot of damage to the power tools in the gang box. Before they came that way the power tools in the bottom of the gang box had to be tough.
But at home I am like you with some of the tools I keep in the cases, but empties are stoad out of the way. I have seen many sticking out of garbage cans along the curb.
I tried one day to make something out of an old tool case and gave up .
Herb

Nickp · #21

I started using the Husky tool bags sold at Home Depot...I have one bag for drill/driver/bits/charger/couple of 6" clamps/etc...next thing I know it got heavy. Then I have a bigger Husky tool bag for general tools - screwdrivers/pliers/utility knives/laser/prybar/ - you get the idea. Then the tool belt - also chock full...and a bag for sander, and one for jig/sawsall, and one for finishing, and one for electric...and so on. Oh yeah...and a trim router and bit bag. And these became my "job-site" kits. You might imagine how each tried to become its own complete kit so over time the bags became bigger...and heavier. A friend of mine uses the big Husky hand-truck looking thing with wheels and handle...he says it makes it easier to take tools in from the truck...it got to the point where he couldn't lift it on and off the truck...

It's been handy because I could just pick up the bag for whatever project I would work on that day...especially if I was focused on one part of a job.

Now when I go off and do something for somebody, it's a snap to just pick up the bag(s) rather than making kits for the day.

I stopped carrying the 4100 and SCMS around and now use a circ saw, worm drive, hand saw and guides...soooo much easier. If needed, I measure and pre-cut in the shop. Sometimes the pre-cuts even fit like they're supposed to...LOL...

And as I'm ready to hit the "Submit" button I ask myself "what's this got to do with rare earth magnets"...oh, well...too late...

Herb Stoops · #22

I like your idea, Nick, the soft bags just became popular about the time I retired.. I too have some that come with the tools, they seem to fit better with other bags whereas the hard cases are all different sizes and don't stack well ,they like to slide around when you hit the brakes.
Herb

#23

Actually I brought up the systainers in reply about Keith's boxes. I can always move all the posts about it to another thread if warranted I guess. We'll see.

Biagio good question about packing and unpacking the tower of systainers. I wouldn't know. I don't buy into the logic either. Like Herb said I've gotten rid of a bunch of the plastic cases that my tools came in. If I was headed out to jobsites on a regular basis maybe I'd have to rethink all this but if it's a tool I use often then taking it out and putting it back in a case is a PITA. Plus I usually leave the case out in the meantime and it adds to the clutter. I do leave a few things in the cases mainly because of lots of small pieces or accessories.

#24

I was going through my tool manuals and found this info sheet about rare earth magnets from Lee Valley. Some interesting facts in it. The cups they mention putting the magnets into are these: https://www.leevalley.com/en-us/shop/ha ... asher-sets I keep a small supply of the cups and the counterbored washers in my spare parts.

Herb Stoops · #25

Those work really well, and they do increase the holding power of the magnets. Also dress up so the screw is not exposed.
Herb

Biagio · #26

I also bought some of the LV magnet cups some years back - local magnet suppliers had no notion of them at the time. Counterbored washers I can make.
The magnets themselves were/are much cheaper at LV than locally - not sure why. But shipping magnets by air is a no-no.
For the record, the cups are a pretty tight fit. The magnets here are metric diameters, a smidgen too large - had to work on the cups to make them fit.

#27

Still along the line of tool holders, I bought some hex shank drill bits in a set each of Imperial and metric and wanted to keep them organized so I drilled holes in strips of wood. But the holes were a little too tight to get the bits out easily and one size bit up was too loose to hold them in. So my son said why don't you glue magnets in the holes. That was one of yesterday's jobs. That's a stack of magnets between the holders.

Herb Stoops · #28

What kind of glue holds the magnets?
Herb

#29

Most will for a good while. I epoxied one onto the side of my drill press to hold the chuck key and that lasted for 15 years or so. I have had the odd other one let loose but if they do just glue them down again. This time I used used regular white glue. That question reminded me of one more use. I have a hasp on my shop door so that it can be padlocked if we will be away for a bit and it kept flying open and getting in the way when I opened and closed the door so I drilled a hole and glued in a 1/4" magnet behind it so that it stays stuck to the face of the door. That one popped loose after about 10 years and I had to glue it back in again.

#30

I'm doing some counter tops for a young fellow my kids went to school with. I have two joints to pull together and the only joiners I can find is the type shown in one photo. Apparently there is a shortage of joiners, particle board, the resin that is used to make particle board and mdf, and maybe even drawer slides according to the Richelieu store in Kelowna. I have to join the pieces in place so I'll be installing them from under the top. I envision this as being a real PITA trying to hold the joiner in place and tighten at the same time so I came up with an aid that will use some rare earth magnets.

I started by taking a little scrap of thin ply and drilled 4 small holes in the corners. I use the holes in the ply as a drill guide to drill pilot holes for very small screws to go in the underside of the top around the perimeter of the joiner pockets. Once the pilot holes were drilled and countersunk I installed the screws to flush or slightly below flush. Once all the screws were installed I took the little ply jig and drilled the pilot holes out and installed 1/4" rare earth magnets. I used fish glue to hold the magnets in place so I can salvage them later.

The idea is that I can put the joiner in position and then put the plywood under it and the magnets in the ply will stick to the screw heads and hold the joiner in place until I get it tightened up. I haven't tried it yet but it should help get the job done.

Nickp · #31

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Mon Apr 12, 2021 2:47 am I'm doing some counter tops for a young fellow my kids went to school with. I have two joints to pull together and the only joiners I can find is the type shown in one photo. Apparently there is a shortage of joiners, particle board, the resin that is used to make particle board and mdf, and maybe even drawer slides according to the Richelieu store in Kelowna. I have to join the pieces in place so I'll be installing them from under the top. I envision this as being a real PITA trying to hold the joiner in place and tighten at the same time so I came up with an aid that will use some rare earth magnets.

I started by taking a little scrap of thin ply and drilled 4 small holes in the corners. I use the holes in the ply as a drill guide to drill pilot holes for very small screws to go in the underside of the top around the perimeter of the joiner pockets. Once the pilot holes were drilled and countersunk I installed the screws to flush or slightly below flush. Once all the screws were installed I took the little ply jig and drilled the pilot holes out and installed 1/4" rare earth magnets. I used fish glue to hold the magnets in place so I can salvage them later.

The idea is that I can put the joiner in position and then put the plywood under it and the magnets in the ply will stick to the screw heads and hold the joiner in place until I get it tightened up. I haven't tried it yet but it should help get the job done.

You're always thinking...!

DaninVan · #32

Another Canadian source...
https://www.princessauto.com/en/10-pc-m ... 0008713406
The price is right! Shipping might be an issue, especially cost wise.
Having said that, I'm pretty sure my LV ones came by mail(?).

#33

That's a really good price at 30 cents each. They are a bit of an odd size at 8mm which is close to 5/16" which might mean you need an 8mm forstner or brad point bit if you want to inset them in something but I'm gradually buying more mm drill bits for the reason that more and more stuff is coming in metric sizes. At 8mm they would also have pretty good holding power.

KellyCraig · #34

I just added another freezer to the collection. This one is a chest freezer and it's located in a small room out in my shop, next to the Cabela dehydrator and the freeze dryer. That flat top is a irresistible work area, but I didn't want to beat it to death by setting trays and thing directly on it.

I had a large piece of rubber from a treadmill I got off craigslist for the 3/4 horse DC motor. Washed up, it makes a great protective cover, but comes then the problem of keeping it in place, since just lifting the lid of the freezer would throw it off, down the back.

My shop door is littered with rare earth magnets ranging in size of about 3/16" in diameter to about 3-1/2" (400# pull). I had about twelve 1-1/4" diameter magnets awaiting my next brain fart/storm. For example, I have a Flatmaster sander and you do not want to start wood on the ends, where the hook-and-loop starts and stops. It's worse than a breaking band saw blade, if you do. I have one of these with large handles on each ends, kind of like those concrete filled thingies at gas stations.

With nearly 100# pull, these don't wander and keep you out of the "holy religious bovines" areas.

It dawned on me four of these would hold the 1/8" thick rubber in place just fine, and they do just that, superbly.

KellyCraig · #35

When I was remodeling the kitchen, wifey wanted me to replace one of the two sliders with a double French door. Understandably, she wanted a curtain so we could cut out light or gain privacy.

This created a problem, because I'd built a small pantry at the end of the counter and with its doors facing [and 90 degrees to] the French doors. This meant the top door could not go all the way up, because the curtain rod would interfere with it.

That was problematic because that meant the top shelf would be all but inaccessible, unless it was left open to the dine room portion.

My wife reminded me I was always bragging about great rare earth magnets were, then asked why I didn't use them to hold the upper panel in place?

I went with her idea. A bevel on the protruding wood in back guides the panel into position and six magnets grab it and hold it in place.

KellyCraig · #36

I modified the main switch on my 240 dust collector by adding a longer cable and putting the switch in a plastic box that could be moved anywhere on the machine or even attached to a metal tool next to it.

To hold it in place, I used a heavy duty (about 1" diameter mountable magnet).

This allowed me to move the switch to the front of the machine and much higher up, so I don't have to be an acrobat or contortionist to turn the collector on.

For me, this made more sense than a remote because the switch is right at the location I swap connections for the five tools it pulls from.

#37

KellyCraig wrote: ↑Sun Apr 16, 2023 10:36 am I modified the main switch on my 240 dust collector by adding a longer cable and putting the switch in a plastic box that could be moved anywhere on the machine or even attached to a metal tool next to it.

To hold it in place, I used a heavy duty (about 1" diameter mountable magnet).

This allowed me to move the switch to the front of the machine and much higher up, so I don't have to be an acrobat or contortionist to turn the collector on.

For me, this made more sense than a remote because the switch is right at the location I swap connections for the five tools it pulls from.

Interesting idea. I put a long outfeed table on my unisaw so that I could cut full sheets of ply or mdf. I have to get the sheet set up on roller stands first which means I can't reach the switch without a broom handle of something similar to turn it on. I was thinking about putting in an overarm chip deflector/ dust port and mount it on there but I still wouldn't be able to reach it without something long and skinny to poke it with. Moving it to the side of the cabinet for that one job would be handier.

Bushwhacker · #38

Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Mon Apr 17, 2023 12:16 pm
KellyCraig wrote: ↑Sun Apr 16, 2023 10:36 am I modified the main switch on my 240 dust collector by adding a longer cable and putting the switch in a plastic box that could be moved anywhere on the machine or even attached to a metal tool next to it.

To hold it in place, I used a heavy duty (about 1" diameter mountable magnet).

This allowed me to move the switch to the front of the machine and much higher up, so I don't have to be an acrobat or contortionist to turn the collector on.

For me, this made more sense than a remote because the switch is right at the location I swap connections for the five tools it pulls from.
Interesting idea. I put a long outfeed table on my unisaw so that I could cut full sheets of ply or mdf. I have to get the sheet set up on roller stands first which means I can't reach the switch without a broom handle of something similar to turn it on. I was thinking about putting in an overarm chip deflector/ dust port and mount it on there but I still wouldn't be able to reach it without something long and skinny to poke it with. Moving it to the side of the cabinet for that one job would be handier.

I am far from Techy so bear with me on this. You may want to slap me over this, but, here goes anyway....
My wife has several things like a lamp and her ( well, maybe just the lamp. but anyway, she turns it on and off with a device like a small remote. The lamp is always plugged in, but does not operate until she clicks the remote.
Could your saw be set up that way to operate off a remote?
Might not want it to be permanently set up that way.
But when you know you will be cutting large stock.

oops, looks like Kelly already covered that idea.

just a thought.

Bushwhacker

#39

Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Tue Apr 18, 2023 7:02 am
Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Mon Apr 17, 2023 12:16 pm
KellyCraig wrote: ↑Sun Apr 16, 2023 10:36 am I modified the main switch on my 240 dust collector by adding a longer cable and putting the switch in a plastic box that could be moved anywhere on the machine or even attached to a metal tool next to it.

To hold it in place, I used a heavy duty (about 1" diameter mountable magnet).

This allowed me to move the switch to the front of the machine and much higher up, so I don't have to be an acrobat or contortionist to turn the collector on.

For me, this made more sense than a remote because the switch is right at the location I swap connections for the five tools it pulls from.
Interesting idea. I put a long outfeed table on my unisaw so that I could cut full sheets of ply or mdf. I have to get the sheet set up on roller stands first which means I can't reach the switch without a broom handle of something similar to turn it on. I was thinking about putting in an overarm chip deflector/ dust port and mount it on there but I still wouldn't be able to reach it without something long and skinny to poke it with. Moving it to the side of the cabinet for that one job would be handier.
I am far from Techy so bear with me on this. You may want to slap me over this, but, here goes anyway....
My wife has several things like a lamp and her ( well, maybe just the lamp. but anyway, she turns it on and off with a device like a small remote. The lamp is always plugged in, but does not operate until she clicks the remote.
Could your saw be set up that way to operate off a remote?
Might not want it to be permanently set up that way.
But when you know you will be cutting large stock.

oops, looks like Kelly already covered that idea.

just a thought.

Bushwhacker

Good question David. We have a couple of lamps operated by one remote capable of operating 3 different outlets. My son got them for my wife and I've never looked at them. I don't know if they have a wattage limit. They would only operate on 110 and half my equipment is 220. You can turn 220 equipment on and off by breaking one circuit. Some switches only break one side anyway. So theoretically it could be done with one of those and they likely come in a variety of wattage capacities.

Herb Stoops · #40

I have a lapel remote on my 220v Dust Collector so that I can turn it on/off from anywhere.
I have a 3 button one on my night stand to turn on/off the bedside lamp,it is hard to reach when in bed , it also switches on/off my air compressor in the shop if it comes on while I am in bed. It is on the other side of the wall from my bed, and wakes me up. They are on a 110v circuit in the shop.
I can't remember what the 3rd button turns off and on. The 110v is a plug in unit in the shop, the 220v was wired in by an electrician,so I don't know how that works,it is dedicated to the Dust Collector circuit.
Herb