Keeping hole saws from sticking onto the mandrels

[Cherryville Chuck]

A couple of years ago I was drilling some holes with hole saws out of the kit I have and having problems trying to get the hole saws off the mandrel when I needed to change sizes. My son showed me a trick he must have learned at work to keep them from getting stuck. Before I screwed the saw on the mandrel he had me wrap a strip of solder wire around the base of the threads on the mandrel and then tighten the saw down on it. Once I was done the saw came off easily. The solder I was using was about 1/8" diameter but I'm not sure if it needs to be that big.

[Herb Stoops]

A couple of years ago I was drilling some holes with hole saws out of the kit I have and having problems trying to get the hole saws off the mandrel when I needed to change sizes. My son showed me a trick he must have learned at work to keep them from getting stuck. Before I screwed the saw on the mandrel he had me wrap a strip of solder wire around the base of the threads on the mandrel and then tighten the saw down on it. Once I was done the saw came off easily. The solder I was using was about 1/8" diameter but I'm not sure if it needs to be that big.

So what is the principle doing that, does it screw down on the solder and squeeze out enough to allow clearance between the mandrel and the cutter?Would paste wax also work?
I spray WD40 on the cutters to keep them from burning the sawdust.
HErb

[Cherryville Chuck]

A couple of years ago I was drilling some holes with hole saws out of the kit I have and having problems trying to get the hole saws off the mandrel when I needed to change sizes. My son showed me a trick he must have learned at work to keep them from getting stuck. Before I screwed the saw on the mandrel he had me wrap a strip of solder wire around the base of the threads on the mandrel and then tighten the saw down on it. Once I was done the saw came off easily. The solder I was using was about 1/8" diameter but I'm not sure if it needs to be that big.

So what is the principle doing that, does it screw down on the solder and squeeze out enough to allow clearance between the mandrel and the cutter?Would paste wax also work?
I spray WD40 on the cutters to keep them from burning the sawdust.
HErb

I'm really not sure what is the reason Herb. The solder flattened but not enough to squeeze out.The solder we were using was old lead solder and lead is a bit slippery and was used in olden days in Babbit bearings but the newer stuff isn't supposed to have lead in and I don't know if that would make a difference. Maybe it's because it isn't steel against steel too. I think one of the reasons why the mandrel and saw stick so badly is because the saw gets pretty hot in use and that may cause it to stretch enough that it tightens up a bit more in use and as soon as you quit it starts cooling which makes it even tighter. Maybe wax might work. Maybe grease too. Never seize might be a better choice but it can get messy like grease and is even harder to wipe off.

I never thought of lubing the hole saw and the plugs can stick in them pretty good sometimes. I think I would try one of my cans of dry lube on it instead though. Canadian Tire sells one under their brand that is cheap and works pretty well so I imagine it's available down there under a different brand name possibly at your beloved HF.

[Herb Stoops]

You will be amazed at how much easier it is to use a hole saw in wood if you spray it with WD 40. Also removing the plug is also easier too.I am not sure of other lubes as I have not used any, I would steer away from grease or messy lubes that might discolor the wood. Wax might work, like spray wax. But water base finishes might not be compatible if not sealed with shellac first.
As for the saw cutter sticking to the threaded shaft the solder idea is a good one. Years ago the mandrels used to come with a very thin spring steel washer between the hub and the cutter, which usually got lost after the first cutter change. I use holesaws quite a bit, and have a variety of different mandrels. The best are the ones with the 2 spring loaded dowels that don't tighten against the hub of the mandrel.
https://duckduckgo.com/?t=ffnt&q=Hole+s ... &ia=images
Or the Freud which only fit their holesaws. (Beware Metric)
https://duckduckgo.com/?q=+Freud+Hole+s ... &ia=images

HErb

[Cherryville Chuck]

I'll have to check my set to see if they would be compatible with that first mandrel. That is a better idea.

[roxanne562001]

A couple of years ago I was drilling some holes with hole saws out of the kit I have and having problems trying to get the hole saws off the mandrel when I needed to change sizes. My son showed me a trick he must have learned at work to keep them from getting stuck. Before I screwed the saw on the mandrel he had me wrap a strip of solder wire around the base of the threads on the mandrel and then tighten the saw down on it. Once I was done the saw came off easily. The solder I was using was about 1/8" diameter but I'm not sure if it needs to be that big.

That sounds like a great idea Chuck I use hole saws allot making my toys it is a pain when they stick. I recently updated most of my hole saws to the pin style arbor that helps but the small saws won't work with the pins.

hole saw arbor.jpeg

[Herb Stoops]

This is the smallest I have seen and they use a small threaded mandrel.
https://www.ebay.com/itm/Lot-10-MORSE-1 ... 3184788897
Herb