Touch Up Spray Gun

[DaninVan]

I posted the Owner's manual on another thread, a while back ...https://workersofwood.com/viewtopic.php?f=45&t=1112.
Well, I finally got to take it for a test drive today! I'm spraying waterbourne polyurethane mixed with RIT dye, and a tiny bit of water for thinning.
*doing happy dance* I love it!!! I was worried about something going wrong, totally unnecessarily as it turns out.
The urethane~RIT dye mix works like a hot damn...dries to the touch almost as fast as I can apply it.
I'm using a big cardboard box with a furnace filter and my dust collector to control the overspray mist; not perfect but seems to work OK.
I've completed all the components of those construction crane toys, so two more coats then assembly.
Pictures soon!

[tomp]

I have used J.E. Mosers Premium Spray Lacquer mixed with Transtint in the past to give some depth to a cherry display cabinet, was very happy with the results. It was an open-frame cabinet with glass panels on the sides and front, my customer wanted a darker shade. Because of the small sections (the corner posts were 3/4" square and grooved for the glass), I used a detail HVLP gun too, very minimal overspray. Wish I'd remembered to take some photos as I thought that it turned out pretty well - probably back in the days before I had a digital camera though, thinking back.

Been a few years now, and as I recall I had a little problem when spraying out my test panel - I'd used Minwax stain, let dry for several days but not getting a good finish, talked to the tech rep at the company (very helpful) and he had me put on a seal coat of shellac over the stain which worked very well.

[DaninVan]

Sure glad I bought the el cheapo furnace filters...3 for $6. Pretty amazing at how well it performed; just disposed of the one I used as it was probably 70-80% blocked by the time I was finished. (16"x20")

[Herb Stoops]

You can buy that by the roll at HD. That is what I use on the overhead air filter outlet, and prefilter on the inlet.
HErb
https://www.homedepot.com/p/True-Blue-2 ... /202446750

[tomp]

Didn't know that Herb, thanks for the info. Getting ready to build a "portable" dust collector using a 20" box fan, and this looks like an economical way to buy the filters. Thinking that I'll make an open wood frame to fit around the outside of the fan and stack maybe three layers of this material inside and in front of the fan. I had the thought that the way to hold the filter material in place was to run some heavy wire (or maybe some small dowels across the face of the opening to keep the filter in place.

Not that I'm cheap, but wondering if it makes sense to replace the layers of filter material in stages - obviously, the outer layer will get dirty first, would it make sense to toss that when it's dirty, the middle one becomes the outside and the new one goes next to the fan?

[DaninVan]

That makes a lot of sense, Tomp; the front of the one filter that I used was really blocked up, the back was slightly affected but basically fairly clean, From my one experience with a 1" thick filter, 3 layers is probably overkill. The thing about the cheap furnace filter is that it's already in a frame and pretty rigid without any modifications. As I said earlier, $2+ seems like a pretty economical solution.
https://www.homehardware.ca/en/3-pack-1 ... 5535420323

[Herb Stoops]

when I made my first homemade overhead shop air filter, I used an old furnace blower for a fan , and a grizzly inner filter, and the blue fabric over both ends.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzl ... 738/t10503

Herb

[tomp]

That makes a lot of sense, Tomp; the front of the one filter that I used was really blocked up, the back was slightly affected but basically fairly clean, From my one experience with a 1" thick filter, 3 layers is probably overkill. The thing about the cheap furnace filter is that it's already in a frame and pretty rigid without any modifications. As I said earlier, $2+ seems like a pretty economical solution.
https://www.homehardware.ca/en/3-pack-1 ... 5535420323

I may have to rethink this, HD has an economy filter for $1.25, guess I need to look at the economics of the alternates. And just the two filters is probably going to be enough to do the job, the law of diminishing returns has to apply somewhere - and I guess the "loose" material would need some kind of support to prevent it from being sucked into the fan which complicates what should be a quick and easy project.

[tomp]

when I made my first homemade overhead shop air filter, I used an old furnace blower for a fan , and a grizzly inner filter, and the blue fabric over both ends.
https://www.grizzly.com/products/grizzl ... 738/t10503

Herb

I had one too ( My FIL was a HVAC mechanic and got me an old unit from a furnace he replaced), replaced it because it was a little bulky, and loud. I got a good deal on the Jet cleaner which I really like, just looking to add something right at the workpiece that's going to help cut down on the dust swirling around - and out of the mini-split too.

[Cherryville Chuck]

Not that I'm cheap, but wondering if it makes sense to replace the layers of filter material in stages - obviously, the outer layer will get dirty first, would it make sense to toss that when it's dirty, the middle one becomes the outside and the new one goes next to the fan?

I often read in my heavy equipment magazines that air filters worked better once the heayy pores were clogged. There is a happy medium between air flow and filter efficiency. I would tend to say discard the first one and add a new one at the rear.

If a filter assembly needs extra support chicken wire might do it or a small mesh concrete reinforcement screen which is far stiffer.

[tomp]

I have a partial roll of hardware cloth that I bought to make a sieve to separate gravel from the dirt in my flower beds, think that would easily provide adequate support for the filter material. A quick look shows that the cost of the filter roll is $12 and change for 240", divide by 20" and the cost per insert is pretty much what's advertised for the "bargain" filters.

[Herb Stoops]

Just a warning from my experience, 1/2"X 1/2" hardware cloth will cut your air flow drastically. I covered a 6" round duct to my dust collection on the table saw one time to keep large pieces of debris from going into the dust collection system. It cut the air flow so much that the sawdust would build up in front of the screened opening.
IMHO I would use a square woven wire fencing wire with as large of openings as possible to get up to 90% air openings. As an Example 2"X2" will cut air flow to 75%

https://www.mcnichols.com/wire-mesh?key ... ire%20mesh

HErb

[tomp]

Thanks for the heads up Herb, the piece I have is 1/4" x 1/4" (trying to remove gravel and small stones) so I guess that would really cut down on the flow. Looking at the pluses and minuses, I may be just as well buying a case of the $1.25 filters and go from there.

[Herb Stoops]

I agree as long as they fit your box with not too much refitting. Can they be disposed of without too much fuss, like in the garbage?
Herb

[DaninVan]

That's where mine went...*zips lips*

[tomp]

I put the furnace filters in the garbage, can't see these being any different.

[Stick486]

I put the furnace filters in the garbage, can't see these being any different.

liquid paint/finishes is/are considered HAZMAT... dried isn't...
this of course, excludes the exotic formulas and lead base...

[DaninVan]

Mine's dry as toast.

[Stick486]

Mine's dry as toast. :)

trash can it is...

[Herb Stoops]

Toast with jam on it.
HErb

[Stick486]

Toast with jam on it.

gotta have PB too... after all what's jelly w/o PB???...