SCRAP.jpg
This is a LOT of cut offs...
- Stick486
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This is a LOT of cut offs...
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Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
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- HandyDan
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
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HandyDan
Youngstown, Oh
Youngstown, Oh
- DaninVan
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
OK; I need a nap after seeing that. Holy Hanna; somebody has too much spare time ...or too much money!
- Stick486
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
maybe it was a T&M job???
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
Somehow, I don't end up with that much scrap. and all of it the right size or big enough to be able to cut it all one thickness. don't think so.
This thing was planned and cut to this size purposely. Yes, it took a lot of wood and time.
Do you suppose it is a tabletop?
Bushwhacker
This thing was planned and cut to this size purposely. Yes, it took a lot of wood and time.
Do you suppose it is a tabletop?
Bushwhacker
- Stick486
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
YUP...
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
A lot more than I have in my gallon jug.
I don't have the long clamps needed for that thing.
Bushwhacker
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
How would you even go about doing a clamping on that layup?1Bushwhacker wrote: ↑Mon Dec 12, 2022 3:22 pmA lot more than I have in my gallon jug.
I don't have the long clamps needed for that thing.
Bushwhacker
If he used epoxy (or Weldbond) he could just have slid the pieces into place...no clamping.
That's what this guy does...
- Stick486
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
RF bonding....
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
A thin layer of glue on both pieces and wait until they just start to skin over and the glue will act somewhat like contact cement. I would probably make a table long enough and wide enough, cover it with wax paper. and use heavy cauls on either side, at least 2" thick and add a row at a time. You'd need to flip it over for every new row because you wouldn't be able to clamp half the clamps above and half below the glue up.
- Stick486
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
deep throat clamps or panel clamps...Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Wed Dec 14, 2022 1:13 pm because you wouldn't be able to clamp half the clamps above and half below the glue up.
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- DaninVan
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
Oooooo....I LIKE those!!!!Stick486 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 14, 2022 1:20 pmdeep throat clamps or panel clamps...Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Wed Dec 14, 2022 1:13 pm because you wouldn't be able to clamp half the clamps above and half below the glue up.
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With a bit of ingenuity I think a guy could make something similar. maybe not as pretty, but functional.
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
The problem with that clamping system is that all the small pieces would fall out. You'd need a bottom under the glue up to keep them from dropping. Each row would need a wider bottom to accommodate the growing width.Stick486 wrote: ↑Wed Dec 14, 2022 1:20 pmdeep throat clamps or panel clamps...Cherryville Chuck wrote: ↑Wed Dec 14, 2022 1:13 pm because you wouldn't be able to clamp half the clamps above and half below the glue up.
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image.png
If you built a jig where you had a bottom and a back and you stacked up two or three layers on their sides to make 2 or 3 layer thick planks first then you could use something like that to glue all the planks together.
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
Stick
I have thought about those clamps as a great tool for making slabs for cutting boards etc but have yet to convince myself to pull the trigger. What has been your experience, preferred manufacturer and model?
I have thought about those clamps as a great tool for making slabs for cutting boards etc but have yet to convince myself to pull the trigger. What has been your experience, preferred manufacturer and model?
- Stick486
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
EXCELLENT...
Pony...
long ago discontinued..
you could make your own...
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
As usual the best stuff goes out of production.
I currently make up jigs as needed, similar to the ones seen in the attached. The approach works well but a bit of a hassle at times to come up with the right combination of blocks.
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- Stick486
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
plan ''B''....
make them any size you want...
use shallow vinyl covered unistrut instead of wood...stronger and way less flex... can't find it vinyled??? - vinyl it yourself...
https://www.woodcraft.com/products/wood ... ing-system
. .
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
@Stick486 ,
I have those clamps, and was going to suggest them to Daninvan as a reasonably-priced alternative to ingenuity.
1. It is worth mentioning that the minimum thickness of boards to be clamped, is dictated by the width of the steel clamp bars at each end (one fixed, one screw-tightened), unless one is prepared to do some work on the wood “cauls”. I spent some fuzzy-headed time during a late-night glue-up, trying to figure out why I could not clamp some 16mm boards tight (my steel pieces are 3/4”). The geometry is such, that once the cauls had hit up against the clamp bars, I could not apply adequate lateral pressure, irrespective of which set of notches I used.
2. I am not sure what our equivalent of unistruct would be. What is it used for, do you have approximate dimensions, why vinyled, and how would you attach the plastic ridged bars, without having protruding screw heads?
In a nice piece of irony, my spellcheck had turned unistruct into “uninstructed”.
I have those clamps, and was going to suggest them to Daninvan as a reasonably-priced alternative to ingenuity.
1. It is worth mentioning that the minimum thickness of boards to be clamped, is dictated by the width of the steel clamp bars at each end (one fixed, one screw-tightened), unless one is prepared to do some work on the wood “cauls”. I spent some fuzzy-headed time during a late-night glue-up, trying to figure out why I could not clamp some 16mm boards tight (my steel pieces are 3/4”). The geometry is such, that once the cauls had hit up against the clamp bars, I could not apply adequate lateral pressure, irrespective of which set of notches I used.
2. I am not sure what our equivalent of unistruct would be. What is it used for, do you have approximate dimensions, why vinyled, and how would you attach the plastic ridged bars, without having protruding screw heads?
In a nice piece of irony, my spellcheck had turned unistruct into “uninstructed”.
- Stick486
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
notch them to dia of the acme threads for thickness and the width of the bars...
a grinder is just the ticket...
you'll only need notches if you use unistrut and ¼'' thicknesses are doable......
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plan "B"..
remove the clamp bars and sub a thinner one...
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Unistrut is a grown-up version of the erector set you played with as a child...
BTW.. Unistrut is a valid word...
Everything you need to know about Unistrut Channel.....
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so the steel doesn't react w/ acidic woods or the glue and the glue doesn't stick to vinyl..
Vinyl J-Trim slid on to the strut's legs works really well... the better stuff to use comes in rolls...
Liquid Vinyl Coating...
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the struts are inverted w/ the holed flats up/out and the legs down....
bolt or sheet metal screw the ridged bars on to the flats...
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
SNORK” Mountain Congressional Library and Taxidermy...
- Stick486
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Re: This is a LOT of cut offs...
no problem..
if you adjustable bolt (bolt w/ wing nut) through bolt the far end and put the clamp on the near end you can make two clamps w/ one kit...
J hooks work well installed on the flats work well instead of the supplied step bracket...
use T bolts and wing nuts for speedy relocating...
. ,
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